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What are you asking Santa for this year?
Liz Klein - December 28, 2021 Christmas is coming up, and family is starting to ask me for gifts I would like. So far I am going to be asking for some Darn Tough Socks, and a Bayite Ferro Rod.
What are you hoping to get for Christmas this year that is prepping/survival/outdoors related?
Read MoreBest survival knife: Complete Guide
UnknownPrepper - December 26, 2021 In this post, I will write about survival knife, or simply knife for those who don’t do outdoor activity.
This post will be a little bit longer, but it will cover almost everything, including steel, size, and etc.
Disclaimer: I do not have connection with any affiliate, I simply share my own knowledge.
If you are picking up a knife for prepping purpose, you will want durability as first, so I can only recommend fixed blade in this purpose, no matter how strong a folding knife, it is still not one piece, no matter how the advertisement say, you will want a fixed blade.
You will also want a full tang and not rat tail tang, this is not always the case, but if you can, always look for full tang, skeleton tang is also as durable (maybe slightly different) as full tang.
First most important: Steel
A steel is the most important point for knife (of course), I simply list steel in three type, followed by different grade.
Type 1: Carbon steel: as it name suggested, a steel with some carbon added (actually ANY steel need to add carbon or boron to be able to harden well), and forged into a knife. It is my favorite steel, carbon steel knife will rust badly if left in moisture for a long time, especially salt water, so most carbon steel knife come coated, but you will still need to take care of the exposed edge. However aside from rust, carbon steel can be sharpen easily to wicked sharp, hold an edge quite long, while still very tough and can handle lots of abuse.
Type 2: Stainless steel: The name speak for it self, a steel thats stainless and resist corrosion well. They are rust resistant but not rust proof, they will still rust (With the exception of H1), but only if you done intentionally (throwing it outside for a year). Stainless steel will not rust because it contain at lease 11% chromium, the more chromium, the more it resist corrosion well, but at the same time it also decrease the toughness. This is the reason why functional long machete or sword are made of carbon steel, if you see one in stainless, they are wall hanger for sure.
Type 3: Semi-Stainless: this one is a little bit special, its carbon steel with little amount of chromium (around 7-8% but no guarantee), these steel have a balance between the two steel above, with toughness from carbon steel, and fairly well corrosion resistant. Some tool steel fall into this category.
Second important: Heat treat
If steel is the body of knife, heat treat is the soul. depending on different heat treat, same steel and be brittle, tough, springy, and much more. Most manufacture will heat treat their steel base on the intention use of the knife, and if the manufacture is a well known brand, their heat treat should not have issue. you won’t be needed to worry about their heat treat much. However, do pay attention to what the designer hope the knife to do, so you won’t be buying a combat knife for wood working.
Third important: Grind
Grind means the blade edge shape, there many much grind available, I will only mention some here:
1. Scandi grind: This is the grind that the popular morakniv companion use, best for wood working and bushcraft, is it easily to sharpen as you could lay the bevel on stone, best for beginner)
2. Convex grind: This is the edge without bevel (some have micro bevel), it can be done thick to offer good and strong edge, or go thinner side to be better at bushcraft, the popular Falkniven F1 use this grind, you can also see this grind in Condor machete and some other large tool in a thicker version, notable mention, katana also use this grind, the only downside is it is harden to sharpen without proper skill.
3. Full flat grind: Full flat grind is one of the most versatile grinds, it can be thick and heavy, or it can be extremely thin and sharp, or it can be a balance between the two. This grind work on most (if not any) knife, it is also easy to sharpening if you have basic sharpening skill, and this is the one I prefer.
Fourth Important: Handle
Many would go straight for the steel and forgot about this one, but having good handle is just as important as the steel itself, bad handle could make your handle blister in long work (which is very bad in a disaster), or the handle itself could crack, sometimes the bad handle material would give your hand lots of shock in big chopping knife.
Luckily its easy when choosing handle, most people prefer G10 or Micarta, they are near indestructible and will last longer than the steel itself. G10 is made from glass reinforced plastic, it have a plastic feel and resist water very well, while micarta is made of natural canvas, paper, or other material, micarta will absorb water a bit, and will be grippy under wet condition. Notable mention: G10 is slightly durable than micarta. Micarta will develop patina after some use and have a special character, when you look at like and a same knife, you could tell the difference like: yes thats my knife.
Fifth important: Sheath
Lets keep it simple:
Kydex: Good durability, waterproof, most custom sheath maker use kydex. Some kydex will scratch blade, some bad sheath will in contact with edge and dull the blade.
Glass reinforced plastic: Indestructible, but if you like to pull out knife with edge rubbing the sheath, then you would be better just wrapping knife in paper. Glass have high hardness that dull blade, cold steel old sheath have bad design that will dull the blade, but they have remodified the design.
Leather: The old and classic, good looking, some expert will instantly pick this one. Leather need care, and you need to avoid water unless treated with bees wax. Not a good sheath for humid and wet environment. You can also find some very good custom leather sheath maker.
Now we have basic understanding (above seems much, but its only basic), we will talk about how to pick a knife for what you intended to use.
You can skip to conclusion below if you don’t want to read this long article.
Best carbon steel: There are lots of best carbon steel, S7 for legendary toughness and shock absorb, 9260 and 5160 for the durability of long blade, but for short-mid size knife, you will want 1095, or even better, Sharon Steel 50110B (1095 cro-van or Carbon V). Carbon steel work best for those who don’t like a long sharpening time, tough as nails when heat treated properly, but will rust very quickly in salt water or left wet. You might not care about rust if you use the knife daily, since most carbon steel knife is coated, the rusted edge will be sharpen and removed by the end of day.
Best stainless steel: I am the one that hate stainless steel, despite years of outdoor experience, I still can’t bring myself to like stainless steel(with the exception of m390/20cv/204p), the only reason to choose stainless is for working in a wet environment. Personally I think m390/20cv/204p is currently the best steel in the market (For the jack of all kind): It has superior edge retention: While not as good as those super hard s125v, you will only need to sharpen after weeks of works. Good corrosion resistant: top tier with H1 in lead (H1 is the only steel that will not rust no matter what you do with it). Ease of sharpening: Super steel is hard to sharpen, but m390 is fairly easy if you not trying to reprofile, ceramic and leather strop work well for normal touch up. Toughness: when properly heat treated, can be as tough as s35vn. If you want slightly tougher than m390, elmax will be the go, with little drawback of slightly less edge retention.
Best semi-stainless steel: Now come to the interesting one: I personally thing the best steel for toughness is cpm-3v, tougher than even 1095 carbon steel, while still offer some corrosion resistant when compared to tougher S7, better edge retention than most carbon steel. Crucible also have some other great steel that could compare to 3v: cpm-4v(or Bohler vanadis 4e) that have lower toughness than 3v but higher edge retention, cpm-m4 is also a notable popular option. Sleipner used in Lionsteel knife is also a good semi-stainless if you can’t get American steel knife for whatever reason.
Conclusion: 1095cro-van or 1095 for carbon steel, m390/20cv/204p or elmax for stainless steel, cpm-3v or cpm-4v for semi-stainless steel. The only reason to chose 1095 over 3v is that not much 3v knife on the market to choose, and not every maker could bring out the steel potential, or one of the most important things: price, which bring us to the next topic.
Th best knife would be: cpm-3v steel, with maker heat treated it for hard use, come with g10 or micarta handle, in kydex sheath. Currently Lionsteel M5 with cpm3-v is the only knife that match all these expectation (except sheath), if you don’t like the design, you can only go custom, which again, cost a lot of price. Notable mention: if you work with corrosive chemical daily, you will need a H1 knife rather than normal stainless.
Now goes the price:
You can find the good durable knife under $100, with the better handle and sheath going up to $150 (either after market accessory or including with knife), the premium one are around $200-$250. If you want to go custom, be expected to pay for $300-$500, or even more, depending on how you want it.
And the knife length: 4″ blade length is the sweet spot for most people in small knife, 7″is the best for those who like those do it all blade, 9″ and above is a little big, you will be better with a better tools in this case, but I myself carry two knife (4″ and 9″) for different purpose in almost every outdoor activity.
About the knife I recommended:
In case you missed the words above, I would type it again: I do not have connection with any affiliate, so this is only my person opinion, and I only recommend what I use.
Short knife:
Ultimate Pick:
SURVIVE! GSO Series
This is recommended by my friend, who have more experienced than me in survival knife. Semi custom knife, Multiple length to choose from, CPM-3v steel or other steel you prefer, heat treating expertly with cryo treating, G10 or Micarta scale, Kydex sheath, which match every terms listed above. Around 200-250$, it is expensive, but you get what you pay for and its worth every penny.
Carbon Steel:
KA-BAR BK16 Short Becker Drop Point Fixed 4.375″ Carbon Steel Blade, Zytel Handles, Cordura Sheath (You could also get BK2 if you want a longer edge)
ESEE Knives ESEE-4P-MB Plain Edge, Coyote Brown Sheath, MOLLE Back and Clip Plate
Both are very durable and could take a lot of beating. Kabar use slightly better 1095 cro-van, while esee use plain 1095, esee has better handle and sheath, if you buy kabar, trust me you will want to buy the aftermarket micarta handle, kabar sheath is usable. kabar heat treat their steel around 56-58 HRC, esee is around 55-57 HRC, while not much big different in numbers, I notice kabar have a slightly better edge retention, vanadium added in the 1095 cro-van might slightly affect it too some also report it is better rust resistant than plain 1095. Lower HRC on esee give it almost bomb proof, I once see someone use a metal hammer to baton with esee knife on youtube (destruction test), the knife bend and did not break, still remain usable afterwards, while I am sure kabar would break in the same circumstances. Personally I pick kabar over esee, since both is durable, I would take the edge retention and better steel, since I would not do stupid things with my knife.
Stainless Steel:
Fallkniven F1 Swedish Pilot Survival Knife 3.8″ VG10 Satin Blade, Black Thermorun Handle and Leather Sheath – F1L
Fallkniven R2 Scout Fixed Blade Knife 3.15″ Elmax Satin Blade, Black Thermorun Handle, Zytel Sheath – R2z
Stainless steel is not better than Carbon steel or semi-stainless if you want a indestructible knife, but if corrosion is important for you, you can also choose to go stainless. Fallkniven F1 one of the most popular bushcraft knife, laminated VG-10, which is VG-10 as the edge, and 420J2 as outer soft layer, VG-10, while not being any special, is still a time proven knife in the field and good stainless steel that hold an edge. The Fallkniven R2 scout is cyro treated Elmax steel, which is a steel with closed performance to m390, but tougher, cyro treated Elmax let it stay at 61-62 HRC which is very hard, I through it would be a little bit brittle, but Fallkniven make the knife super thick at a crazy 4.8mm, which make up for the hardness. It has a shorter edge at 3.25″, also shorter handle which is suitable for medium to small hand, so its not for everyone. Having 62 HRC also make it incredibly hard and stay sharp for a long time, its also mean you will certainly need diamond stone to resharpen easily, ceramic and leather strop as usual will be fine for the touch up.
Semi-Stainless Steel:
Benchmade 200 Puukko Fixed Blade Knife 3.75″ CPM-3V Satin, OD Green Santoprene Handle, Black Leather Sheath
Cold Steel 36CB Master Hunter Fixed 4.5″ CPM-3V Stonewashed Blade, Kray-Ex Handle, Secure-Ex Sheath
I have a chance to handle the Benchmade puuko from a friend that collect knifes, comfortable and good to use. I truly wanted to buy this one, but since its humid where I live, I choose a stainless and carbon combo. I am currently resisting the urge to buy this one, but might give up somewhere. I don’t have experience with Cold Steel master hunter, but having tried their 3v knife, I could say their quality is good. One note mention is the master hunter has a more durable sheath than puuko.
Mora Pick:
Morakniv Garberg Utility Knife Fixed 4.3″ Black Carbon Steel Blade, Black Polyamide Handle, Multi-Mount Sheath – M-13147
Strongest mora available, for those who swear by their knife and skandi grind, also available in stainless steel. Its an upgrade over the morakniv companion, full tang compare to the cheaper model. However if you want scandi grind in the best steel (3v), there are choice available by other brand, but the size might not meet your need.
Mid size:
Carbon steel:
KA-BAR BK7 Becker Fixed Combat Utility Knife 7″ 1095 Carbon Steel Blade, Zytel Handles, Nylon Sheath
The modern upgrade over classic Kabar USMC, do it all type knife, but same as the bk16, you will want a better aftermarket micarta handle. I once used only this knife and was happy, but eventually I switch to the two knife combo since I need higher chopping power.
Big Size:
Carbon steel:
KA-BAR BK9 Becker Fixed Combat Bowie Knife 9″ Carbon Steel Blade, Zytel Handles, Nylon Sheath
ESEE Knives Junglas-II-E Machete 8.375″ 1095 Black Blade, ESEE Logo, Micarta Handles, Kydex Sheath
Big knife is for the experienced user only, you will wanted to replace bk9 handle with aftermarket micarta to reduce shock of chopping. One of the most important is, you are NOT rambo and you will not be fighting with a big knife, the big knife listed is suitable for wood working and utility task, you will want a lighter knife for combat purpose. Most people won’t need a big knife, but if you know you have reason to, there’s no problem with it. Why I need big blade: I personally live in humid tropical environment, I will want to bring a machete anyway, and bk9 done the machete and heavy duty wood work perfectly, that’s the reason I choose it.
You will notice that I use lots of becker knife, mainly because of the handle is so comfortable, and thee finger choil on BK7 and BK9 make the work of small task like carving work so well like a small knife. The only dream knife I want is BK9 in cpm-3v, but its not going to happen without custom.
The current knife combo I carry is Lionsteel m4 + Kabar Becker BK9. I don’t list weapon style knife here because I don’t think they would suit here, might post them soon if I have the time, feel free to share your opinion too.
Update:
EDC knife and the folding category
Thanks for the comment, I agree that a best survival knife is the one that at your hand when you need it, I once think about that when I am cutting thick manila rope with plain edge knife, while leaving the serrated at home.
Other than outdoor use, we end up using our EDC knife more. While the Lionsteel m4 above work great for normal use, some might want a folding knife to get rid of the sheath. When buying folding knife, most of them are stainless since they assume you won’t be hard use on it, when it come to folding knife, lock matter more than steel, by the lock, I mean the mechanism that secure the blade so it wont break flip around when you are using it, which is dangerous.
Lots of lock and the explaination:
Knifeinfomer: Lock Types
After buying some folder from different company, and have them take apart for cleaning after some use, I could say that the Cold Steel tri-ad lock is the most durable, but someone on Youtube do baton with a ZT folder which is Framelock without any problem: Video
So in the end, assuming you are not trying to do hardcore things with folding knife, buy whatever you like about the look of the knife from a company with good reputation. I will still list some folder with durability in mind.
Cold Steel 27BT Recon 1 Tanto Folding Knife 4″ S35VN Black DLC Plain Blade, Black G10 Handles
If you ask me about the most durable folding knife, this come in mind. Bombproof G10 scale, s35vn which I consider a premium steel (But not super steel), American tanto point which stronger than clip or spear point, which is also available as choice for the Recon 1. While their marketing video cutting meat seems a little bit weird, I love the abuse part of their video, which proof they could withstand the extreme condition.
Cold Steel 58B American Lawman Folding Knife 3.5″ S35VN Black DLC Blade, Black G10 Handles
Short pick if you want a shorter blade or not so aggressive lock for legal problem.
Self defense:
Now this is an interest topic, many people will overdo this, but if you can use gun in this purpose, gun is better, if gun is illegal in your country, only then you consider knife. I only cover knife here so I will not include other things such as pepper spray. The following scenario assume that you see the treat coming and not realize the treat after being shot or stabbed, which is useless even if you have anything, so be aware of surrounding is the most important.
Disclaimer: I did not encourage violence and it is not the best way to solve problem. There are better way than knife for self defense, only consider this after you see other option for self defense. The best way to solve conflict is to get away before the fight start, while you might think it is a coward act, but the coward get home safely while the brave one lying at the hospital.
Facts above knife for self defense:
1. Run away wins the fight, assume you are not surrounded (of course) and you have confidence you could out run the attacker.
2. If the attacker also have a knife, you will have bigger chance to get wounded in the knife fight if the fight is longer, so don’t thinking about knife fighting like the movie, aim for a cut and run.
3. If pull out the knife enough to intimidate the attacker, then you don’t need to use the knife, but don’t put back the knife until you sure you are safe.
I will recommend some choice, no dagger here since its for the aggressive use.
Spyderco Matriarch2 Lightweight Folder 3.57″ Black VG10 Serrated Blade with Wave, Black FRN Handles – C12SBBK2W
Emerson wave to open the knife once out of pocket, Spyderco classic serrated edge that slice very well, black coating that reduce light reflection, one swipe to the hand or face will certainly cause a real pain and giving you chance to run away. Having cut my accidently before, I am sure self serrated wound are generally more painful than plain edge.
Spyderco Civilian Folding Knife 4-1/8″ VG10 Serrated Blade, G10 Handles – C12GS
Same as the matriarch, the civilian has a bigger and more intimidating look, the only downside is it doesn’t have the emerson wave, you could use zip tie as make shift wave, but it will certainly not as good as the emerson.
The most important part is, no matter which knife you get for self defense, be sure to practice with it, for example you will need to familiar with how the wave feature work. Don’t always assume the attacker will go easy on you, even if the serrated wound in painful, if the attack is very piss off or drugged, he/she might not care at all. If the attacker have a more dangerous weapon: dagger, pure fighting dagger, big machete, it is best to run, if you cannot, fight like your life is on the line, because it is.
Fighting Knife: The ultimate pick
Cold Steel 13QMBII Magnum Tanto II Fixed 7-1/2″ 3V Blade, Kray-Ex Handle, Secure-Ex Sheath
While I owned some fighting knife, including the SOG and the famous Kabar USMC, neither is “PURE” for fighting and have some utility consideration built into them, which make them not the best for this task. The magnum tanto come with cpm-3v steel, DLC coated to prevent light reflection, powerful pommel that could do lots of damage and break bone or glass, and most important the American tanto point point which can make snap cut and pierce very goodly, tanto point with cpm-3v combo make it also suitable for light prying. 7.5″ blade also make it could reach vital organ easily and cause fatal damage. I am also surprise to found out it is the only knife I have that is truly balanced, if you put it on table table it could stand by the guard, which means it has 0″ point of balance.
Keep in mind if you are buying knife for self defense this is NOT the one. This is knife mean for aggressive use and hard use, it is better suited for those who have trained in knife fight, or someone who is on mission and want a fighting knife as backup, but do remember if you are in the US gun is still better than knife.
Dagger will not be listed here as I don’t view them as “knife”.
Prying, Break and Enter
KA-BAR BK3 Becker Tac Tool 7″ Carbon Steel Blade Rescue and Tactical Knife, Zytel Handles, Plastic Sheath
The knife that also seen used for rescue team, 527.3011 Kg in weight, if you try to chopping something, you will feel like rather that cutting, its like hitting something with a steel bar. This is the knife that specially built for prying, breaching and entering, perfect for rescue team purpose, or someone who’s lock outside by their wife because drinking with friends whole night (Just a joke). Its a chunk of monstrous steel and not suitable for any other wood working, having tried this first hand, don’t even thinking about using it for wood work or fined task, unless you reprofile the edge first, but that defeat the purpose of this knife.
My Choice: Short and Long combo, the Fallkniven R2 (More suitable for Humid rainforest and for my medium sized hand), the Becker BK9 (Big chopper is a must for rainforest), if I am bugging out in SHTF, I might also bring the Magnum Tanto 2, a blade that wont break, work for utility task, better suited for urban environment (strong tip for stabbing and prying, blunt force pommel), while also suitable to ty to a stick as spear with the lanyard hole at the pommel.
Final conclusion: As you see what I choose above is mostly based on the environment. First know what suit your environment, then know what suit you, and finally know what you want to do and what you are able to do. Try go camping with your knife, even just in your backyard, that help you better understanding with your knife and gear. I tried to cover as many thing as possible, if you like nothing above thats fine, after reading you should know what you want, go for what suits you and your environment.
FINAL UPDATE: Changed some choice on the stainless and ultimate pick, after discussion with a friend which is more expert than me. Added mora pick, fighting knife, and prying knife. I might as well not update this in the future, but will still reply to comment, if you need anything please let me know. Also fixed some typo.
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Looking for opinions on OTF Knives
Thumper - December 8, 2021 Howdy all. I’ve been reading posts on here for awhile, but this is my first post.
What are y’all’s opinions on OTF (Out-The-Front) knives? I’m thinking about purchasing one but wanted to get some possible input from people who know more about OTF knives.
Thanks in advance!
Read MoreA clothing puzzle – Looking for advice for sensitive skin
Estel - November 27, 2021 I am new to prepping and am trying to work out what clothing I would want for a good go bag. I have an unusual constraint: I have sensitive skin and can’t wear wool (even merino) or most synthetics against my skin. They aggravate my serious eczema. I rely heavily on cotton clothing in daily life but linen, hemp, silk, and (I think) rayon/bamboo are also okay against my skin.
Obviously cotton is not recommended as a base layer for emergency scenarios. Given my constraints, is silk my best option? Is there a meaningful difference between cotton and linen or hemp here? I normally think of them as similar since they’re all cellulose-based fibres.
A bit of context: I live in an urban area in the Pacific Northwest.
Read MoreThese pants aren’t chainsaw proof but pretty close
Conrad B - November 14, 2021 Found this video of Husqvarna’s chainsaw pants and thought it was pretty impressive.
I went to the website and there are two kinds, Technical or Classic. They both have the same rating (ASTM F1897) but a pretty big price difference.
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/personal-protective-equipment/
Read MoreWhat should I add to my altoids EDC tin?
Gideon ParkerStaff - November 9, 2021 I’ll have to make an altoids survival tin sometime that could help me survive a night in the woods with just what is in the tin, but I do have an altoids EDC tin that I use almost everyday. Take a look at it and let me know if there is something I should add.
What would your altoids EDC tin look like? Try making one and share it on here using the kit builder!
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Has anyone else heard of wool knops?
LBV - November 9, 2021 During our most recent lockdown I discovered a product called wool knops. They are springy, can be compressed and bounce back, stick to each other.
I am planning on using them to fill my sleeping bag, as well as a puffer jacket. Their texture and form means they hold a good deal of air so to me they could be a better alternative to both polyester and down – warmth, water resistant as well as fire resistant. Is anyone else familiar with these?
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Specialized prepper multitool for food preparation
Bob - November 1, 2021 This multi-tool is for preppers – food preppers that is
Good morning,
It’s about a gadget for food preparation when out in the field and this multitool is the de factor kitvhen drawer of gadgets.
It’s approximately configured like a Swiss Army Knife. It has a cheese grater, inter alia – amongst other things. Not familiar with “Zester”.
One thing I’m sure the gadget cannot do is open Brazil nuts. My method requires use of a crash ax and multitool with a vice grip.
Most definitely carry the needed cleaning products along with this field expedient kitchen tool(s). Otherwise the bugs / animals will follow.
Read MoreWashing machine broken, might want to try something non-electric
PrepPrepPrep - October 29, 2021 What would you use to wring out clothes, that *does not hurt your hands*? The washing machine just broke. Maybe I can get it fixed, maybe not, but it occurs to me to have something for backup. My hands can’t really do the wringing on their own at all any more, although I have done it in the past. I see some hand wringers (mangles) online, and would like to avoid something that is going to break.
Read MoreHas anyone bought any “cheap but worth it” prepping supplies from Wish.com?
lsmith - October 28, 2021 I’ve found that there are many potential prepping supplies on wish.com for a very low price (+shipping from China) and was wondering if anyone has had luck finding worth it items to round out their preps there? I’ve seen molle first aid bags, ferro rods, solar items, and other such things there for very low cost. Of course, I’m aware that the quality of many of their items is questionable, but I was curious if anyone had found items that are worth it? Many items seem identical to what I find on amazon. Thanks!
Read MoreMy winter safety kit
rangerjohn - October 27, 2021 Greetings all,
I love the kit builder on this site. Having said that, I put together something I am calling My Winter Safety Kit.
Feedback, comments, questions?
Read MoreNeed advice on my winter vehicle emergency kit
Liz Klein - October 27, 2021 Winter is coming. I hate my commute during this time of year and always dread getting stuck. So I’m trying to prep now before it gets cold and miserable.
I have snow tires on my car, am up to date with repairs, and have my normal everyday get-home-bag that has maps, fire starters, food, first aid kit, etc… But I wanted to get your advice on my Winter additions. And The Prepared has a pretty nice Kit builder that I thought I would try out. Here is a link to my kit:
My budget is kinda small so these are things I just had around the house, but is there anything you recommend that I add or replace? Tell me the why behind your suggestion too.
Thanks guys!!
Read MoreBike trailers
Sun Yeti - October 22, 2021 I recently upgrade my bicycle into an ebike, and I love it. Got me thinking though. I could get over 20 miles on my bike before the battery ran out, and I had to work a bit harder; I could probably get 40+ miles away in the first day. But, I don’t have a good way to carry my stuff.
Can anyone recommend a nice sturdy bike trailer? Ideally from your personal experience and use? I’d like something that could hold probably 250 or 300 pounds, so it could hold my bug out bag (40 lbs), my cat and her go bag (maybe 15 lbs together), some of my wife’s stuff (she could ride her own bike but it also doesn’t have cargo capacity), and still have spare capacity to carry my wife or myself if one of us became injured or incapacitated. Having some kind of mesh top with rain fly would also be good in case there’s a feline and/or human riding in there. If it could fold up to take up less space that would be ideal as well, but it not the top priority.
I’ve prepared pretty decently for Plan A (bug in), Plan B (bug out by car), and Plan D (bug out on foot), but I’m thinking Plan C (bug out by bike) needs some more thought and preparation, thus my question.
Read MorePick axes and axe repair
Watermelon Samurai - October 21, 2021 Two questions:
1) Does anyone have a recommendation for a company that makes good quality pick-axes? I’m not happy with the quality of steel that comes on most tools imported from China or Mexico these days: I bent the last pick-axe I bought from Home Depot, and I’m not interested in replacing it with the same problem.
2) While replacing the handle on a chopping axe, I noticed a significant crack in the axe head. The crack is on the side where the handle enters the head.
The head is probably 50 years old and has outlasted several handles. Can I have the crack repaired by a welder or has it reached the end of it’s life?
Thanks in advance,
-WS
Looking for a shell jacket
MarcusAurelius - October 14, 2021 I am looking for an outer shell that I can use potentially for a BOB but more so for hiking in inclement weather. I prefer low-key colors like gray, olive, or brown. I’m fine with saving if some of the more pricey options are worth the money. Any suggestions?
Read MoreVacation traveling and bugout bags: How do you pack to stay prepared?
Crysis - October 8, 2021 So I’m about to travel back to the US for the first time in almost three years to visit my family. I’ve got all the paperwork in order, checked and tripled checked every detail and cleaned the house, I’ve even got everything laid out in order to pack my bags days ahead of schedule. But while doing that, the same question that I ask (and answer) every time I travel pops into my head: “Should I take my Bugout Bag?”
Usually the answer is always yes, and I find myself making room for a BOB taken apart and placed in a suitcase and carry-on, only for it to be reassembled at the destination. This takes time, space, and weight, all of it I end up paying for one way or another. And even though I am asking for advice in this forum, I know that my need to keep telling myself to stay prepared will eventually result in my mind rambling on and on. “But what if you need it? It’s crazy out there, you never know what might happen…that’s why you keep this thing!…”
So, here’s my question and plea for advice: How would you pack your Bugout Bag for travel via commercial airlines? Do you have a bag that is already perfect for checking, and it only needs you to remove any sharp objects or other contraband? Or do you just take it apart and put it all into your checked bag and carry-on. Or, do you have another system all together. Do you just leave it at home and travel light, or do you opt to not travel at all? Or am I just crazy and paranoid? That might actually be the case.
Any advice would be much appreciated! Even if you’re just telling me I’m crazy and need to calm down. 😉
-Crysis
Read MoreAlternatives for packing Yaesu FT-60R cradle in BOB?
Jonnie PekelnyContributor - October 8, 2021 This is another newbie ham radio question. I’ve packed my Yaesu FT-60R in my BOB and was about to pack the cradle that goes with it, but jeez, all that adds up to a lot of bulk! I already have a 12V cigarette lighter adapter for charging the Yaesu in my BOB. Unlike the wall adapter, it doesn’t need the cradle. But I would feel better if I had an alternative to charging from a car in a bug out scenario — what if I don’t have access to a car? Same also goes for a sheltering in place scenario when the power is out, although in that case, bulk isn’t an issue. I’m wondering what options are available? I did look at this third party USB charger cable, but I don’t know how well it works and I’m not sure whether it still requires the cradle.
Read MoreNeed advice for upgrading ham radio antenna
Jonnie PekelnyContributor - October 8, 2021 This is a ham radio question. I am (still) a newbie ham, mainly interested in emergency preparedness. My radio equipment currently consists of two HT radios — the Yaesu FT-60R and the Baofeng BF-F8HP. I am looking to upgrade the rubber duck antennas that came with these radios. I was advised to get a folding, tactical SMA antenna (I don’t actually know what SMA means!) but there is a plethora of choices out there. What I’m looking for is something that will meaningfully extend the range, especially of the Baofeng, is inexpensive, can be folded into my BOB and doesn’t make the radio unbalanced when I hold it in my hand. Looking for recommendations.
P.S. am I correct that the Baofeng needs a female connector and the Yaesu a male connector?
P.P.S. Beyond the male and female issue, are the HT antennas universal? Or do I have to look specifically for something that’s made for the models of radio I have?
Read MoreReview: Ertupe rechargeable hand warmer and power bank
Robert LarsonContributor - September 30, 2021 With all of the supply chain issues, I am starting to think about things that I will want in a few months and buy it before everyone else does and then I am not able to.
Fall is already coming where I live and I’ve had a few days of cold hands in the morning and at night. I do already have a Zippo hand warmer that is powered by lighter fluid, but that takes many steps to activate, heat up, and is just a lot of work for when I want instant heat for a short period of time. I have heard of electric rechargeable hand warmers but never had used one before.
Looking on Amazon, there was this kind that I have seen over the years, but there was also a new contender that looked to have many more features and capabilities at a cheaper price.The problem was that it didn’t have any reviews yet, so was this real or not? I thought I would give it a try!
The Ertupe hand warmer is a 10,000mAh power bank that can heat up your hands and charge your phone. I like dual capability items. It is charges by USB C, which is something I hadn’t seen in other electric hand warmers. And I like that it has a tiny screen to show the battery percentage instead of just 4 dots.
It has three heat settings to provide between 104-140 degrees F (40-60C).
Now this isn’t very scientific but I used a medical laser thermometer for checking a child’s temperature and did a bit of testing. The hand warmer started out at 92 degrees after being on the charger for about ten minutes and then I turned it onto the highest setting. In two minutes it rose to 103 degrees, and at four minutes it went beyond what my thermometer was able to calculate.
I held it in my hands and it was indeed warm. My cold clammy hands (Mrs. Robert Larson knows of these hands too well), quickly sucked out the heat and I measured the temp again and it was around 96 degrees. This seems to be normal though with hand warmers, because even my lighter fluid powered Zippo hand warmer would do something different when I sucked out it’s warmth, it needs a bit of time to heat up the metal again.
So far I’m very pleased. It feels very sturdy, comes with a charging cable and little carrying sack, and does it’s job. I wanted a hand warmer that I could power off of my small portable solar panel in case there was a power outage.This is a great unit for warming up your hands before going to work on the computer, or after being outside for a while. It doesn’t warm up while it is charging, but that’s a minor nit pick.
Let me know if you have any particular questions about it and I’ll see how I can answer them. What are you planning on doing to stay warm this winter?
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“Tamper resistant” door lock
Barb LeeContributor - September 28, 2021 Oregon has just passed (without a public vote) a law requiring guns to be stored with trigger locks, in a locked container or room. In order to comply with the letter of the law, we decided to put a lock on the linen closet door and store the guns in there. A closet qualifies, but it’s the tamper resistant part that needs to be addressed. I’m not coming up with a good solution for a tamper resistant lock. Or hasp/lock, doorknob, whatever. Not so much concerned about security as complying with the new law.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Read MoreHow do you safely store an emergency kit in a pickup truck?
Thomas Dakan - September 27, 2021 I, like a lot of folks, drive a pickup truck. Specifically a Nissan Frontier. I don’t have a trunk, and there isn’t a ton of extra room in the cab for a locking cabinet. I’m not planning to keep any firearms in my car kit, but I worry that an obviously full backpack will be an extra tempting target.
How do folks store their car kit to prevent theft? I have a wire rope bag and I guess I could padlock that to one of the seats, but I can see potential disadvantages to doing that. I didn’t find any articles that talked about it. Maybe everyone just brings their kit inside when they aren’t driving?
Read MoreWhat are some valuable tools to have on hand?
Olly Wright - September 27, 2021 I’m talking about things like shovel, rake, hammer, drill, air compressor….
I am wanting to build up the tools that I have on hand for day-to-day repairs and living, but also for an emergency if high winds comes through and knocks some shingles off my roof, or a window breaks. I don’t want to have to run to the hardware store as my roof is leaking and buy a hammer and nails, I want to be prepared and ready.
Read MoreWhere do you keep your car fire extinguisher?
pnwsarahContributor - September 26, 2021 Feels like an exceedingly mundane thing to post about under the circumstances, but: I was digging back through the blog archives over the holidays and read somewhere (either on TP or in a linked article) that one should keep one’s car fire extinguisher within reach of the driver’s seat. Makes sense, but after driving around for a few days with my fire extinguisher rolling around in the passenger side footwell, I can’t help feeling like it would be a super dangerous projectile in an accident. Does anyone have a good method or approach for safely securing their fire extinguisher within reach of the driver’s seat?
And note I don’t have one of those yawning cavern center console bins with a locking lid, so I’m thinking about strapping the thing to the seat somehow.
Read MoreWhat’s the best contractor bag size and thickness for bug out bags?
Jonnie PekelnyContributor - September 26, 2021 This is hopefully a simple question. I’m upgrading the trash bags in my BOB to the contractor bags recommended on this site. I’ve never bought contractor bags, so I don’t have a feel for their bulkiness or weight or even size really. I know that the premium ones are 42 gallons and 3 mil. Is this what’s recommended? I don’t want to overkill and carry more weight and bulk than necessary. What kind of contractor-type bags do folks carry?
Read MoreSafety Goggles for Protesting
Sun Yeti - September 26, 2021 I exercise my first amendment rights to peaceable assembly from time to time, although covid certainly makes me think twice about being anywhere in a large group these days. Nonetheless, having seen footage of recent protests, I decided I should get a pair of safety goggles for any future protests I might attend. I have three main criteria:
1. Passes MIL-PRF 32432 High Velocity Impact Standards. Should my eye have the misfortune to encounter a rubber bullet, I would like to still be able to see with that eye subsequently.
2. Doesn’t make me a target. If I’m ostentatiously covered in protective gear, that might be seen as an invitation to attack me. It also makes it easier to claim that I’m some kind of ‘agitator’. So I would like a pair of goggles that doesn’t look too different from a pair of glasses.
3. Keeps out tear gas. Should fully seal against my face, ideally with a D5 rating (resistant to fine dust).
Other features, such as anti-fog and transition (gets darker in bright light) coatings, comfort, low cost etc. are desirable, but not required.
I’ve spent a couple hours scouring the Internet for such a product, but I have yet to find something that meets more than two of the main criteria. Here are some examples:
Pyramex Safety Torser Safety Goggles: https://www.discountsafetygear.com/pyramex-safety-torser-safety-goggles.html . Does NOT meet criteria 1. Meets criteria 2. Meets criteria 3: creates a pretty good seal (rated D4 for dust, but not D5 for fine dust). Other: cheap, anti fog.
Pyramex SB7080SDT I-Force Sporty Dual Pane Anti-Fog Goggles: https://www.amazon.com/Pyramex-Strap-Temples-Indoor-Outdoor-Anti-Fog-SB7080SDT/dp/B006WPSF72?th=1 . Meets criteria 1. Meets criteria 2. Does not meet criteria 3: might kind of seal against my face if I pulled it extremely tight, has no rating for dust resistance. Other: anti fog, transition coating.
Pyramex GC504TN Capstone Safety Goggles Chemical Green Frame Clear Lens Anti-Fog: https://www.rajsupply.com/pyramex-gc504t.html . Meets criteria 1. Does NOT meet criteria 2: it would be very obvious that I was wearing industrial-grade eye protection. Meets criteria 3 (probably): makes a full seal and has vent caps although it is not specifically dust rated. Other: cheap, anti-fog.
So, does anyone know of a product that does meet all three of my criteria? I suppose if you think my criteria are wrong I’d be interested in hearing your logic. If no such product exists, does anyone have experience modifying eyewear? I’ve thought of trying to add a good seal to a product that meets criteria 1 and 2, but I’d really rather have something that’s been tested and rated.
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