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Coleman kerosene pressure lanterns available again!
Waldog - April 3, 2022 Coleman kerosene lanterns are available again. They only make these sporadically and haven’t been available for quite a while. Buy from Coleman direct for $119 and free shipping. I highly recommend these lanterns. They are among the brightest lanterns Coleman ever made. Coleman bumped the price to $129 since I first posted this. Still a good deal.
https://www.coleman.com/lighting/lanterns/kerosene-lantern/SAP_3000004258.html
Read MoreStoring 1 lb. propane cylinders
Seasons4 - April 1, 2022 Over the summer, I bought a camp stove and a couple of 1 lb. propane cylinders. I also bought a couple of the small propane/butane backpacking stove containers. I’m trying to figure out where to store them over the winter. From a quick Internet search, it looks like they should be stored outdoors year round, and I don’t have to worry about them freezing in my cold climate.
I live in a condo with no garage. There is an uninsulated storage shed attached to the condo. While it’s not detached from the living space, it seems like this would be my best option. Do you agree? Maybe store the cylinders upright inside a storage cooler (the kind for storing food during a camping trip)? Or? Thank you.
Read MoreLooking for ideas for nut-free snacks for my backpack
Estel - April 1, 2022 Since long before I got actively interested in preparedness, I’ve been in the habit of carrying around a well-stocked backpack with all sorts of stuff I might need (extra layers of clothing, ibuprofen, bandaids, mylar emergency blanket, zip-seal bags, etc.)
One thing that, for some reason, I’ve never gotten into the habit of carrying, but now think I should, is some sort of food that I could eat either if I’m just out and about and get hungry, or if I get stuck somewhere with just my backpack for some reason.
I have the impression that a lot of people carry protein bars for this purpose. Protein bars generally contain nuts, though, and I have a severe nut allergy (which is all the more reason it would be wise for me to carry food around, since it’s harder for me to find safe food while out and about than it is for most people).
When I do buy snacks, they tend to be things that aren’t really suitable for just keeping stored in my backpack, such as potato chips.
What are some suggestions for snacks I could carry that wouldn’t take up too much space in my everyday backpack?
Read MoreSurging energy prices leave British glasshouses empty
JennyWren - April 1, 2022 This may sound trivial on the face of it, however, it shows how difficult life could get very soon. The crisis in the Ukraine has the potential to affect much larger swathes in life. With energy price rises affecting us directly through heating and fuel costs, it’s also coming indirectly through food and transport.
I’ve cherry picked a few points from the article.
High Energy Costs Means Crops Not Planted.
ROYDON, England, March 31 (Reuters) – In a small corner of south-east England, vast glasshouses stand empty, the soaring cost of energy preventing their owner from using heat to grow cucumbers for the British market.
Elsewhere in the country growers have also failed to plant peppers, aubergines and tomatoes after a surge in natural gas prices late last year was exacerbated by Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, making the crops economically unviable.
The hit to UK farms, which need gas to counter the country’s inclement weather, is one of the myriad ways the energy crisis and invasion have hit food supplies around the world, with global grain production and edible oils also under threat.”
Montalbano, whose grandfather emigrated from Sicily in 1968 and started a nursery to provide local stores with fresh cucumbers, decided not to plant the first of the year’s three cycles in January.
SOARING COSTS
Last year he paid 40-50 pence a therm for natural gas. Last week it was 2.25 pounds a therm, having briefly hit a record 8 pounds in the wake of Russia’s invasion.
Fertiliser prices have tripled versus last year, while the cost of carbon dioxide – used both to aid growing and in packaging – and hard-to-attain labour have also shot up.
“We are now in an unprecedented situation where the cost increases have far outstripped a grower’s ability to do anything about them,” said Jack Ward, head of British Growers.
It means a massive contraction for the industry, threatening Britain’s future food security, and further price rises for UK consumers already facing a bigger inflation hit than other countries in Europe following Brexit.
UK inflation hit a 30-year high of 6.2% in February and is forecast to approach 9% in late 2022, contributing to the biggest fall in living standards since at least the 1950s.
Bill mentioned in another thread that there could well be a petrol/diesel shortage further down the line as fuel is diverted to the expeditionary forces lining up at the Russian borders. I’m not feeling very optimistic at the moment. 🙁
Read MoreResults after I tested four wireless outdoor security cameras
Rich DCContributor - March 31, 2022 I wanted to chip in to the best security cameras review, so for this post I selected and bought four cameras that advertised useful features for a basic or introductory outdoor home security camera. These are my notes from personally testing the Wyze Outdoor Kit, Reolink RLC-410W, Ring Stick Up Cam Battery, and LaView Outdoor.
The main distinguishing features were a combination of battery vs wall power and devices that claimed internet-free functionality for use in emergencies or off-grid applications. By comparing devices from different vendors I learned a lot about what to look for and what to avoid when picking out a camera that I’ll share at the end. Head to head comparisons between the cameras also reveal a number of interesting features and unexpected considerations.
Features Comparison
All cameras tested had the advertised the following features:
Remote live monitoring Optional notifications for motion detection Laview notifications didn’t seem to work Automatic IR Night vision mode Wireless data transmission Mounting hardware Optional extra features, such as paid cloud storageI put together this table:
“Personal Favorite” – Wyze
Wyze Outdoor Kit – $60
The Wyze Outdoor Camera is an easy choice for a balanced range of features and is a good option for a first-time security camera user. While there are some limitations, the combination of price, features, and ease of use make this a “sane prepping” choice for many introductory applications.
Pros:
The small, battery powered wireless device is easy to place and largely unobtrusive. The camera offers all the basic features you’d expect such as motion alerts, live view, night vision, and audio options. (Motion alert push notifications require an internet connection) Additional cameras are fairly inexpensive and the base station is advertised as supporting up to four cameras each. Extra features add some resilience An optional micro SD card slot allows for time lapse and scheduled recordings. Micro SD cards can be put in both camera and base station. Once set up the system is at least partially usable when the internet goes out. The device advertises a travel mode that is designed to be internet free and connect directly to your phone/tablet/laptop when it acts as a wifi access point or with the base station (if you can power it). The camera can be recharged during active use via a usb interface (should be compatible with mobile solar chargers or battery backups)Cons:
The app can take some getting used to with some less intuitive user interface options. The app isn’t poorly designed, just not as intuitive as other options. The app occasionally glitches, in particular manual video recording sometimes fails. Resteating micro SD card helped with this issue The camera uses a magnet to attach to its base stand. This magnet is strong enough to support the camera however a stranger could easily steal the camera body. The camera is best suited to near-in applications like covering entryways or close by points of interest. The “motion zone” is not customizable and limited to the bottom two thirds of the image frame. Raindrops that fall directly on the lens may distort the image. Some advertised features are less useful, such as two way talk (this seems less applicable to most prepping scenarios though), users of indoor/wall powered Wyze products might be disappointed by comparison, but for the price/power constraints this is not a bad value product. “No Internet” options are limited to travel mode and live view, can’t access stored motion event recordings without internet.Wyze Off Grid Mobile Use
Wyze advertises a mode of use where you can operate free from the internet using your phone or another mobile device. Such a use case could appeal to some prepping scenarios while on the move though the features available are somewhat limited compared to the internet-enabled option. This feature is called “travel mode” and can work with either a single camera (without base station) and presumably could work with a base station and multiple cameras, though power for the base station must be provided.
Pairing to a single camera is straightforward and allows basic functionality such as live view, and (with the addition of a micro SD card) scheduled recording events or interactive still and video recording. Push notifications do not appear to work in travel mode. While not exclusively tested, I suspect travel mode may have battery implications (either increased demand due to acting as wifi connection, decreased demand due to motion based recording being inactive, or some combination of both). While not considered during the initial purchase, this seems to be a useful and relevant ‘added value’ feature.
Off Grid and Technology Enthusiasts – Reolink
Reolink RLC-410W – $60
The Reolink camera requires wall power but uses wifi to transmit data offering a combination of flexibility and constraints on where it is placed. Enabled by the wall power this camera has superior image quality and additional features not provided by most battery powered options. The main appeal of this Reolink is that it allows for continuous 24/7 internet-free recording, integration with third party software/hardware, and a very durable camera body and mounting base.
This camera wouldn’t be my first suggestion for many but if you’re comfortable with modest hardware/software configuration and have long distance views on your property with available power outlets (or have limited internet connectivity) this camera has a number of features you may value.
Pros:
The camera offers all the basic features you’d expect such as motion alerts, live view, night vision, and audio options.(Motion alert push notifications require an internet connection) The Internet is not required for basic usage, data can be transmitted through a wifi network that is disconnected from the internet. This camera makes use the Real Time Steaming Protocol (RTSP) allowing for third party software and hardware integration and expanded local storage options. Unlike battery powered options, this allows for continuous 24/7 recording. Micro SD slot allows easy local event recording through the app.Cons:
While the app and camera are largely plug and play an ethernet connection to input wifi network credentials is needed for initial setup. Internet access is advised for updates, software downloads, and possible app limitations (initial setup was conducted with internet access, though it might be possible through a disconnected wifi network, push notifications for motion alerts seem to require the internet) A small hex wrench was not provided for adjusting a set screw and the provided mounting philips head screws stripped but are easily replaced with higher quality wood screws The included power supply does not look rugged or weather proof and should be sheltered from rain. A power extension cord and the cord connected to the camera body are higher quality, though some extra weatherproofing with electrical/duct tape is suggested for some of the connections. Third party software and local storage may require a degree of computer/network skills and internet research but is not too difficult. Motion detection is very sensitive by default and may require some tuning/experimentation to avoid false positive alerts without missing more meaningful events. For example IR illuminated rain drops activated motion alerts even with adjustments to default settings. Custom detection zones and sensitivity can be changed. Higher end cameras from Reolink advertise more nuanced motion detection (person/car), though I’m unclear if these are local or cloud services. It might be possible to fix night-rain detection issues by choosing an overhang or other covered area to mount this camera (to avoid having illuminate rain drops directly in front of the camera lens)“DIY Security System” – Ring
Ring Stick Up Cam Battery – $100
The Ring Stickup Cam Outdoors is an upgrade pick most appropriate for those looking to slowly build up a full security system, are willing to pay for a monthly plan, and aren’t worried about losing internet connectivity. This device unequivocally requires an active internet connection to function. Local storage options are limited to manually downloading clips from a cloud account (though it seems like a limited amount of cloud storage is provided for free, this is limited to a free 30 day trial period as it is advertised as requiring a monthly plan for download to local storage).
While not advertised it seems possible to use your phone as a mobile hotspot which would make this a mobile option so long as you have cellular internet coverage and a data allowance to spare. Due to the combination of a monthly plan (that is not well advertised and initially hidden by a free trial period) it’s hard to recommend this camera unless you plan to build a full security system around the Ring ecosystem. That being said, the quality of the features provided are fairly high. Image quality, and especially audio, are handled well. The alerts are accurate, relevant, and don’t require much change from the default settings.
Pros:
Default motion alert settings are most accurate for relevant motion events Easy to mount Clear audio filters out background noise (wind and distant road noise) Community alerts are useful for situational awareness if other Ring users are nearbyCons:
Monthly service fee required for upgrade and storage options No free local long term storage options Mounting hardware is not rugged Internet is required for all functional usage 30 “free trial” masks limitations of app usage without a subscriptionNot Worth the Time/Money
LaView Security Camera Outdoor – $50
There is a lot not to like about this Laview camera. Initial setup is not intuitive, online documentation is very poor, the app is very limited and designed exclusively for use on a phone. The app requests access to more privacy features than is reasonably required (bluetooth, location, microphone). The camera requires an internet connection for basic usage without providing any compelling cloud features that add value. The camera frame is made of cheap-feeling plastic and poorly designed, requiring a phillips-head driver-bit in a socket wrench or flexible driver to install properly. The pan/tilt functionality is nice, but not unique to this product family. The sound quality is no better, and often worse, than battery powered options. Image quality is not bad when exporting images however the phone-app size limits the utility of the camera in most use cases. Wall-power is provided through a USB cord which makes no sense.
Pros:
Pan/Tilt remote control Automatic object tracking option for pan/tiltCons:
Internet required for all relevant feature usage Poor app design and quality Counter-intuitive setup process Features are unreliable, difficult to enable, or non-existentImage Quality Comparison
Wyze Image quality is not the highest in terms of resolution or contrast. The ‘washed out’ effect on some types of features in the night vision is not ideal. Regardless, the overall features and ease of use still make this a worthy pick for many use cases.
Reolink has the best image quality and lowest lense distortion of all cameras tested. The lack of ‘fish eye’ type lens distortions improves image quality but does restrict view. As a result this camera option is better suited to long views such as a long driveway. Note the superior image contrast and detail for both day and night images.
The Ring camera suffers from a lack of native app support for export. As a result the images above were captured as “screen captures” from an iPad in a landscape layout. Resolution and detail artifacts may be partially a result of this capture method however they are representative of the detail visible in the app window. Lens distortion is highest for this camera which improves peripheral view at the expense of image accuracy.
While the Laview day image has crisper detail and contrast, the night vision image is very washed out by comparison. While the app supports saving images at higher detail than other options the app is also forced into a phone-format window making active monitoring more difficult.
Notes on Wifi Data Range
Three of the four cameras tested relied exclusively on 2.4 Ghz wifi, while Wyze uses an ethernet cord to connect a base station with its own radio for data. Effective range of radio/wifi signals for data is limited by a number of factors including the design/type of antenna on the camera/base station and router as well as obstacles and their material (metal blocks radio frequencies more effectively than wood or brick).
Data range was not tested for the wall powered cameras as my exterior power options are limited so instead I used the battery powered cameras and a cell phone with cellular data turned off to estimate the effective range for my setup. Router placement also matters, as line of sight improves signal strength.
All cameras were able to transmit data from the second floor to the basement without issue (the main obstacles being wood and drywall). Similarly all cameras functioned without issue in the common testing placement approximately 20 feet from the wifi router with a single brick wall as an obstruction. With a single brick wall as obstruction, the Wyze camera functioned without noticeable dropped frames up to approximately 60 feet with performance rapidly falling off within ten additional feet. Ring performed somewhat better with acceptable performance through a single brick wall up to about 80 feet.
I tested the range on the other side of my house, which introduced additional interior walls and a single brick wall as obstructions. Of note, both battery powered cameras suffered in the immediate vicinity of my front (metal) door. Further out on this side of the house the range for both cameras suffered noticeable and were completely unusable at a distance of about 40-50 feet from the router. The additional obstructions, including partial blockage from a metal door likely contributed to poor performance on this side of the house.
Theoretically, range could be improved by using wifi repeaters or moving the wifi router closer to the desired coverage area. As a point of reference, my iPhone 8, with cellular data turned off relying solely on wifi, achieved similar performance which leads me to assume this has more to do with limits on wifi data transmission than hardware differences of the devices.
Battery Life
Battery life will depend on usage/activity, and the sensitivity of motion detection areas. The Ring camera has a physically larger battery and lost a smaller percentage of its total battery life over the course of testing. Both battery powered devices experienced nearly identical motion exposure, though their activation thresholds were slightly different with Ring also being more likely to register a relevant motion event. Both cameras were used in a low activity area for several weeks of testing which likely improved their battery endurance. Testing occurred for approximately 7 weeks starting with full charges. Wyze battery life went down to 55% compared to 88% for Ring. Both performed largely as expected in terms of battery life.
A Word of Caution:
When selecting a modern security camera you are picking not only the hardware but also its related software and services, both paid and unpaid (if an internet connection is required then the odds are high that a remote server is also being used/maintained, even if you aren’t paying for it directly).
Like any other programmable device, software and standards can change. Ideally these will change for the better but updates can also result in reduced functionality. This is in part why devices that do not depend on the internet have an intrinsic appeal for some, if you isolate a device it will remain static and should work short of a hardware failure or existing software defect. If a program defect is found you can weigh the options of updating the software on your own terms.
The same can not be said of service/internet dependent devices. Internet/service dependent devices often require you to periodically perform an update to continue using the device. There is also a phenomenon with “smart” appliances where once support by the parent company is withdrawn the devices are either useless or severely degraded, regardless relying on a company to keep its servers running adds yet another layer that can cause a failure.
What to look for in a Security Camera Company/Product
When researching a security camera for purchase I learned some information that might help you in researching alternatives that suit your needs better.
Look for reliable companies:
Read the worst reviews first. Every product will suffer some amount of negative feedback from a customer who doesn’t like something, but well written negative reviews can point you towards pitfalls quickly. Unfortunately sometimes the reviews come in late, one informative negative review for the Laview camera was written after the purchase was initiated. Keep in mind, some negative reviews might be from user error or a low frequency defect. Can you download user manuals and software from the company website? Try to read the fine print first. Don’t settle for vague or ambiguous documentation, you should see matching model numbers and ideally either publishing or copyright dates somewhere. For example, I found a Laview user manual for a “wifi camera” that seemed to have the features I was after but this was a generic manual that did not apply to the model I selected. Worse still, I couldn’t actually find a user manual online for the model I selected, I had to see the paper copy to realize it wasn’t available online. Had I known to look closer this would have been a huge red flag. Look for active user forums with responses from the company. During my research I encountered informative threads from both Wyze and Reolink forums that addressed features I was curious about. The forum activity and the company responses helped me set expectations. Even if the responses aren’t satisfactory, an active forum with even vague responses can give you insight into how transparent the company is.Look for key features:
Learn the keywords to search for. Before I made any selection I kept using search terms like “no internet” or “internet free” or “offline use.” This did turn up a few promising leads but for network cameras “RTSP” or Real Time Streaming Protocol is a lot more specific as a search term. Once I learned about this term it helped me find new candidates that escaped my first round of research. Unfortunately I had to acquire a camera with this particular standard before I learned of its existence so there is a “chicken and the egg” problem with this method of research. Download the apps and see how far you can get before buying the hardware. Privacy notices and feature limitations might sway your opinion. Look for third party or add-on features. Third party interoperability will require some degree of openness that will hint at how flexible the product is. Read More
What our BOBs have evolved into, and are now becoming through NEED.
Bill Masen - March 29, 2022 Most of us plan on bugging in or out or BOTH depending on the likely scenario, Originally (1970s) it was a luggage system to allow people to be partially self sufficient for a few days during a crisis or conflict.
These Bags / Rucksacks quickly became more comprehensive and extensive as the original “survivalists” wanted to BUG OUT for ever longer periods of time, usually to remote rural areas.
This led to BOBs quickly being supplemented with VEHICLE KITS and EDC gear, to allow survivalists / preppers to be self sustaining for ever longer periods. Originally most were 3 day kits, but as time passed and experience was gain many preppers were planning on bugging out in terms of WEEKS and some hardy souls for MONTHS.
That was the pinnacle of the BUG OUT BAG
Pretty soon things began to change as individual survivalist/prepper and families NEEDS began to change.
INCH, GOOD etc
For example some people felt very strongly that the threat/risk/hazard they feared the most meant they needed to plan for the eventuality of have to leave home permanently. This led to INCH bags (I’m Not Coming Home) and GOOD Bags / kits (Get Out Of Dodge) bags which were large and much more comprehensive (AND HEAVY) and adaptations / upgrades to their lifestyles also happened ( People got rid of family cars for large SUVs, 4x4s, Camper Vans and RVS. They stopped going on vacation to Disney land and started renting / buying or building lodges and cabins way out of town.
However as time passed, society changed and urban conurbations grew many people started to realise that Bugging out looked to be getting ever harder, more complicated, more risky and for some almost bloody impossible to achieve.
These preppers had to change both their preps and lifestyles drastically to improve their chances of surviving the threats they were most concerned with.
They began to plan on BUGGING IN.
Realising the futility of their plans to flee in the face of a disaster that saw the roads, bridges, tunnels, causeways , trails, tracks etc become impassible BEFORE they could escape. They decided to turn their HOMES into their retreats / safe places, homesteads etc .
For those who could chose to relocate their families to new homes better suited to prepping further and further away from large urban areas. Flight to the Burbs and Boonies was common.
Some courageous families up sticks and moved to other states or regions entirely to make their lives in safety..
So for those who turned their homes into their safe places their BAGS & PACKs also evolved. They basically became kits to help them GET HOME from the Office/ Factory/ School/ College.
They lean more towards aiding safe movement from work or school to getting home than sustaining the prepper survive away from home for days or weeks. Better maps, alternative routes, noted danger / high risk areas etc. GHBs are more akin to military patrol kits that aids swift safe movement through possible dangerous areas.
Now people are looking at the news coming from Ukraine much closer as families flee the war.
BUT very often the menfolk are having to remain in situ to fight the invaders, thus dividing families. People are now starting to discus EVAC Kits AND PLANS to help vulnerable women and children reach safety WITHOUT the male member of the family.
1 PERSONAL SECURITY features VERY HIGHLY training the women and kids to be equipped and ABLE to protect themselves.
2 HAVING A DESTINATION, MILLIONS of Ukrainian women and kids are now found wandering around Europe looking for a safe place to stay AND LIVE.
The media reports on PEOPLE SMUGGLERS, PIMPS, CHILD ABDUCTORS and RAPISTS preying on the Ukranian refugees.
Arrests are being made DAILY in Poland, Romania etc as police target and stop criminals abducting vulnerable women, girls and children
So preppers are now starting to look at WHERE CAN YOU SEND THE WIFE AND KIDS to safety ON THEIR OWN ? and developing suitable packs, supplies, ROUTES and DESTINATIONS.
Never say it wont happen where you live, 21 days ago Ukraine was a safe modern democratic European nation. Please at least have a conversation on ensuring the vulnerable members of your family have the best chance of survival if they have to be sent away ON THEIR OWN.
I mean no disrespect to single parent families or singles in this article. I think its vital that as a community we need to be discussing improving SAFETY and MOBILITY for women and children.
Read MoreFilling 5 Gallon Water Jugs – From the Tap or Filtered?
jgrif - March 28, 2022 Hey all. I just bought a bunch of 5 gallon Scepter water jugs. I feel silly asking this question, but here goes… What is the best way to fill them?
I’ve been searching around and found lots of info about cleaning them. I plan to use baking soda. I’ve seen people recommend bleach which freaks me out: bleach in drinking water?? What am I missing?
Do most people fill these from the bath tub? That thought doesn’t bother me, but my wife is a bit crazy about tap water, is convinced is really bad to drink tap water unfiltered. I explained to her that if we ever need this emergency water, that’s likely to be the least of our concerns. But she was asking if maybe a couple of them could/should be filled with filtered water. How would you all think about that?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Read MoreUsing a bushcraft auger to build things during a bug out or electricity-free disaster
Frank Sampson - March 28, 2022 Just came across a thing called a bushcraft auger. It’s like a giant drill bit that can be turned by using a stick.
Originally I thought that must be pretty hard to drill through something by hand, but then remembering my physics class, you can make it as easy as you want by inserting a longer stick longer and getting more leverage.
“Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.” – Archimedes.
From a preparedness perspective, it would be good to have a way to drill holes without the need for complex machines that run off of electricity.
On Amazon you can buy a variety of sizes –
You could even make your own by welding a normal drill bit onto a piece of pipe. It seems to be what this person did-
The most common projects I’ve seen the bushcrafter crowd make are stools, ladders, and swedish rocket stove fires.
Sorry I got a bit carried away there with multiple pictures, hopefully there isn’t a forum limit and they all come through. Has anyone heard of or used one of these before? What are your thoughts on it being a practical prep vs. just being a cool tool for bushcraft projects?
Read More
Finland and national preparedness (Financial Times)
atlanticrando - March 28, 2022 In light of the Ukrainian invasion, FT has posted a story describing Finland’s national preparedness strategy/culture that I thought some here might find interesting.
“But what Finland calls its strategy of ‘comprehensive security’ offers an example of how countries can create rigorous, society-wide systems to protect themselves ahead of time — planning not just for a potential invasion, but also for natural disasters or cyber attacks or a pandemic.
This is not only about military readiness. It also extends to what Charly Salonius-Pasternak, a security expert at the Finnish Institute of International Affairs, describes as the ‘boring, unsexy work’ of ensuring that laws and rules work in times of crisis.”
I think it’s well known that some European states, like Finland and Switzerland, have very deeply engrained military or civil defense infrastructure, but there’s some thoughts here about working with the private sector, etc. that might be of interest. While it’s not a perfect system, there are some things here that other countries should consider, such as dual use infrastructure in case of emergency, etc. From a North American perspective, it would be prudent if Canada and the US investigated some of these measures, given that extreme weather, wildfire risk, etc., etc. is only going to increase.
Read MoreKnowing who has what skills
Sun Yeti - March 26, 2022 So this is a new forum, and it could be a lot of different things, depending on what we make of it.
One thing that I think might be very useful is to have an idea of what the assembled skills and expertise of the members are. If I have a general idea of who knows/is good at what, I know who I can ask for advice on various topics, or ask to weigh in on a thread, etc.
I’m not even sure a thread is the right format for this in the long-term (it might get unwieldy to sift through with size/age), but just as a proof-of-concept, I thought I’d start it in this format. I’ll make an example post under this one.
Read MoreHow to escape 2nd floor bedroom in case of fire
Lowell - March 26, 2022 Do y’all have an recommendations for gear or protocol for escaping a second story bedroom in case of a fire between the bedroom and the stairwell that leaves the house?
I searched the forums and didn’t find anything.
I’m thinking a window breaker and some sort of collapsible ladder.
Read MoreGood portable hard drive or flash drive for bug out bag?
Biglulu - March 25, 2022 I’m trying to find a rugged and reliable portable hard drive or flash drive to include in my BOB for my digital data. The official BOB list does not include any recommendations. Has anyone found any that are built tough and worth looking into?
Read MoreReality check Lismore floods Australia
John Chamberlain - March 24, 2022 I received this post and it just confirmed to me that in a emergency situation we can not look for any worthwhile government support , the federal and state government where hopeless and took to long to respond and when they did it was and still is pathetic, at the end of the day it was people pulling together that made the difference, but what they can do now to get there lives back together without some real help I dread to think.
Regards
John
I’m sharing this in the hopes that it will keep this front of mind for those who have not been flood affected. It was written by someone from Lismore:
Lyn writes…”Today is three weeks since the natural disaster in the Northern Rivers began. If you’re a local and feeling fragile, maybe sit this one out, because I want to talk about what’s happening here. I haven’t really had time to talk to people who aren’t here, but what’s really struck me when I have is that most people don’t seem to have any real sense of the gravity of the situation. The flood in Lismore was two metres higher than any previous records. Two metres is the difference between ankle deep water and water over your head, and that’s on the second storey. The entire city of Lismore is gone. There are no shops, no supermarkets, no library, no cafes, no churches, no McDonalds. Everything went under water. The houses that can be saved need to be completely stripped down to the frame, because the walls are full of mould and E.coli from the water and raw sewerage that enveloped them. But people have no money and no insurance, and there are no building materials even if they did. Lismore isn’t a quaint little town; there are 29,000 people who live in Lismore – and this didn’t just affect Lismore. You can drive an hour or more in any direction (except east because you’ll end up in the ocean) and you will see the same devastation. Roads lined with house sized piles of destroyed belongings, caravans in trees, washing machines on powerlines, a film of brown on everything, clumps of grass on fences still shaped by the force of the water. The beach I take my dogs to is unrecognisable, the coast line completely changed. The helicopters have subsided but you can’t go anywhere without seeing huge army vehicles everywhere; Bruxner Highway is an endless parade of dump trucks in both directions, and there’s a permanent traffic jam to get into the closest Bunnings. (hardware store)People have told me their stories of being rescued by the SES by boat, by the RFS in a helicopter and by an old bloke in a tinnie. They’ve told me how they had to leave their pets behind, how they refused to, and how hard it was to get a rottweiler in the roof. They’ve told me about spending a week in a community hall with no power, no water, and no food. What little food they had was rationed down to a bread roll in the morning and some chicken soup at night, but there was no pet food, so people were giving their rations to their starving pets. They’ve told me how all five members of their family who live in the same town lost their houses, so they can’t even go and stay with them. They’ve told me how they’ve never had to ask for help before, and how every day they have a bit of a cry. I don’t understand how this can happen. How can someone be rescued by the SES in 5 hours and then spend a week in a hall with no water, rationing food with their two 60kg dogs? Why is there still no support? Why is the community still doing everything? There is some support, sure, but not anything that even remotely befits the enormity of this crisis. There is still no temporary accommodation. The government sent 40 motorhomes that no one knows how to sign up for, and another 40 that are sitting in Ballina because they didn’t organise linen, power or water for them. A city of 29,000 people has been annihilated and the government sent 40 motorhomes. They announced pod homes like in the bushfires, but haven’t bought any yet. There are payments you can apply for if you have a phone, a computer, the internet, all of your personal identification documents and the will. The government has announced a 10 million dollar flood mitigation study and 100 million in small business grants, while people are pitching tents in their condemned houses because they literally have nowhere else to go. A telethon raised 25 million dollars in a night and the resulting $500 grants ran out just as quickly. And rent relief is pretty fucking useless when there are no houses to rent for a hundred kilometres. I generally have the opportunity to speak to a few people each day who’ve been directly impacted by the disaster. Almost every one of these people has this unquenchable thirst to tell their story, to share their experience and, above all else, to have someone listen to them. The thing that’s consistent across all of these stories is this palpable sense of hopelessness. People can’t see beyond the present moment, because they can’t see how they’ll get there. And I completely understand that, because frankly, right now I can’t see a way either. People here are so incredibly resilient and humble and kind. There is a sense of unity here that I’ve never seen before and, despite all the trauma and tragedy, there has been a gentleness to the last three weeks that is so rare these days. Today was my second proper day off from “the flood,” and it was really nice to have a break from it, because I’m one of the lucky few who can. But in a way, pausing the recovery just makes you remember what’s lost. Tonight I went and sat at the end of my street with a glass of wine and I watched the sun set over the place I’ve called home for most of the last two years and I tried to cry again, but I still can’t. I regret not throwing myself into the community like this before now, but I’m so grateful I have the opportunity to be a part of it, even if it’s in its darkest, muddiest moments.
Read MoreHow to tell when to toss cans that have rust on the outside
PrepPrepPrep - March 24, 2022 I scrolled down hoping to find this already, but have to start a new topic. I was going through my cans and found some that have some rust on the lid. These are cans I bought at the beginning of the pandemic. What I think happened was that, in 2020, I was very serious about wiping and washing each can, and somehow I left some moisture on the cans, which then started the rust. Or else, maybe baby wipes aren’t the ideal thing to wipe cans with. Baby wipes with added soap. I am disappointed, but I think I have to toss about a third of the cans that I bought at that time, unless someone has a better idea. I think the rust probably has not entered the cans, but as soon as I open them with the can opener, I introduce it, right? Live and learn from my mistake, and just leave the cans in the car for three weeks instead, if you are worried about bringing COVID into the house. (I think since then, we have learned more and no one is saying that we need to hose off all our groceries.) Things to consider: 1. I have never had rust before, so it must be the wiping. But, 2. I have not stored in this particular area before so it could be humid, although I don’t think so. 3. ? It’s not a third, it’s a fourth, but still.
Read MoreWell use without electricity
Holly Bradley - March 23, 2022 Does anyone have a good solution for accessing your well without electricity? We live in the country and have 2 wells which is fantastic. We do have a generator and solar power which can feed electricity for the well, but I want an option without electricity. Something that is maybe a hand pump that could be added to the existing wells. Does anyone have a system you like or love? I would love to hear about your ideas and equipment.
Read MoreHow do you label your food storage buckets?
brownfox-ffContributor - March 22, 2022 If you’re storing long-term food or staples in airtight containers and 5-gallon buckets, how do you label them? How do you tell which containers hold which food?
For a long while I have been using masking tape and a sharpie – just write the food type and storage date on the tape, and apply new tape as needed. I see some previous threads on this too.
But recently I thought it would be nice to have a more visual element – adding some easy-to-recognize icons and shapes.
I created a quick document using public domain graphics to print icons for different types of food – you can find it here.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Hwm0QAT6t3cCjPS1GJ-C3rswFoq1r-Zcw04ZBzApCAM/
Please feel free to copy, edit, or share.
I would love to hear if anyone else does something like this, or if you find this useful.
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Dinner from the freezer
RedneckContributor - March 21, 2022 Obviously, the best food is that which is picked fresh. You just can’t beat that. However, in the middle of winter, or spring now, garden veggies that you have put up, without any chemicals or preservatives, are impossible to beat. That is what is so amazing about having a garden and orchards.
Tonight my wife cooked purple hull peas with chow chow, fried okra, and corn on the cob. All that came from our freezers. Desert was peach cobbler using canned peaches in a light syrup that I put up last spring.
Just amazing!
Read MoreOne woman’s 18-point survival checklist for fleeing Ukraine as Russia invades : NPR
wildfireexpert - March 21, 2022 Found this on NPR two days ago. Thought it was fascinating and wanted to share with y’all since there are several threads about Ukraine on the forum.
One woman’s survival checklist fleeing Ukraine
Read MoreStop the Bleed course (free)
Azure639 - March 20, 2022 You may be the very first responder. It’s critical that you know what to do to save a life. A person with a hemorrhaging wound can “bleed out”/die of exsanguination in three minutes.
Check in your community for a free Stop the Bleed course. You may find it online, but it’s better to take in person as you will practice packing a hemorrhaging wound on a realistic model. You will learn when and how to apply a tourniquet.
Also, I was able to get, for free, the basic first aid course for which the American Red Cross charges $100 by joining the county Medical Reserve Corps. About 40% of the volunteers are not medical personnel. Hopefully they will offer it again soon as covid restrictions are being loosened.
Read MoreDIY custom maps for print & reference
Rich DCContributor - March 20, 2022 TL;DR – it is possible to make custom print quality maps, in some cases very quickly (though your first try may not be quick!). That being said it is also possible to waste a lot of time and money making less usable or useless maps. The following is an attempt at quickly “getting started” for technically savvy but otherwise novice users.
Try at your own risk, for what its worth I probably added more detail than strictly needed, I’m not 100% sure how approachable this guide will be but its offered in good faith, your mileage may vary! Once you have this down its really only 4 [main] steps that can be done in less than half an hour unless you want to do something fancier.But first, what I’ll be showing:
Above, a small “zoomed in” section of the final map as exported to a digital PDF file (the “misaligned” building/parcels are a data issue, not a software issue and acceptable for my purposes)
Roughly the same area on the printed poster for quality comparison ordered via Vistaprint (image darkness more a factor of my poor photography skills). Keep in mind this is less than a 5 inch wide segment zoomed in (it’s smaller than my iPhone 13 mini). The text quality is mildly disappointing compared to the original but otherwise this is actually pretty good quality IMHO, showing the ‘warts’ on purpose to be transparent.Above, a zoomed out view of a 36″x48″ poster sized map with the top/bottom cropped to hide my poor poster mounting skills (Again, I should have changed my photo settings, but photography is not the point of this post).To create your own version, in 5-7 somewhat “easy-ish” steps:
QGIS is an open source Geographic Information System (GIS) application. While this application is capable of a wide variety of tasks, one task it is suited for is the creation of maps for printing. This tutorial is a “simple” crash course in creating a custom map suitable for printing on either a home printer or a commercial service such as a Fedex-Kinkos or Vistaprint poster.
Note: Steps 4 & 5 are strictly optional, OpenStreetMap is often pretty good. Many sub-bullet points are FYI, assuming you leave default settings alone or don’t move/close something by accident this can go pretty fast.
Step 1: Download the application.
QGIS is available for most major operating systems, most users should be able to make use of an easy to use installer though advanced users may want to consider specialty options. Note that as an open source application this software is community driven and supported, including documentation and online help. The user interface may include subtle changes between versions which may result in slightly different workflows. This guide was written for version 3.20.3 on windows but should be broadly compatible with recent versions (users have the option to download older versions at their discretion).
Step 2: Open the application and add OpenStreetMap background layer
Open the application and navigate to the File Menu, select “New”] Make sure that the “Browser” and “Layers Panel” panels are visible If needed these can be added by going to the “View” menu, select “Panels” and make sure “Layers Panel” and “Browser Panel” have checks next to them Note that the panel layout/position can vary and that some panels can have tabs. Panels can be reorganized by clicking and dragging them as desired.Above, an example of “tabbed” panels in case one is not immediately visible
On the “Browser” panel, locate and expand the “XYZ Tiles” option, OpenStreetMap should be a preloaded option available. Double click this option to add it to the map. This should load a streaming map service (requires active internet connection) as a background reference layerStep 3: Navigate to an area of interest
QGIS includes a number of navigation tools such as pan and zoom, these should be displayed by default but if absent can be added by going to the “View” menu, selecting “Toolbars” and then making sure that “Map Navigation Toolbar” is selected Use the pan and zoom buttons to find an area of interest (Pan = first icon, click and drag with mouse, zoom controls are icons 3-10) If your mouse has a “middle mouse button” (oftentimes the “button” is your scroll wheel) you can “pan” while clicking and holding the middle mouse button. You can also scroll with the mouse wheel to zoom in and out. Equivalent trackpad gestures should also work. As you zoom in the streaming Open Street Map reference layer will add more details. Other data sources can be loaded however this is a useful “first step” in many cases.Above, global scale of OpenStreetMap Layer
Above, zoomed in to the same layer with more detail automatically displayed.
Step 4: Add more data (optional)
Note: Steps 4 and 5 aren’t strictly needed if you’re happy with the OpenStreetMap details. Much more data exists for free and you are largely limited only by your time and patience. Feel free to skip to 6.
The benefit of using a curated service, such as OpenStreetMap is that most of the design and display options are preconfigured and are often “good enough.” OpenStreetMap data can be incomplete, out of date, or otherwise inaccurate based on community support for your area of interest. Adding third party data and properly designing and labeling custom data can be very involved as many customizations are possible. These customizations are beyond the scope of this introduction however a partial example is provided to demonstrate basic functionality.
Locate a third party GIS dataset (shapefile format preferred) from any appropriate source such as an internet data portal. Examples of data portals can include: https://hub.arcgis.com/search – ESRI is a commercial GIS company that provides a variety of hosted datasets, many (but not all) will be compatible with QGIS Many federal, state, and local governments will have similar data portals, a google search for “shapefile open data download” and then key words related to your geographic or thematic area of interest is likely to return useful results, for example multiple data portals hosted by the state of Virginia can be found here: https://data.virginia.gov/ (includes non GIS data too) https://vgin.maps.arcgis.com/home/index.html (more specific to GIS data, note the “arcgis.com” domain, many organizations make use of this software to host their data) When searching for data, each website/source may provide a different user interface, the following points are worth keeping in mind Different file formats of GIS data exist, the most basic/universal is called a “Shapefile” and will almost always be compatible with QGIS “Shapefiles” are usually bundled as anywhere from 1 to 8 different files that all share the same name but have different file extensions. The file with a “.shp” extension is technically the “shapefile” file, however if you do not also receive a file with the “.prj” extension (projection information), the data will be virtually useless without a fair amount of extra work. Generally speaking try to avoid changing the names of shapefile and their bundled support files and store them all in the same relative directory. When downloading data you may (but not always) have the option to select the file format, for this tutorial a “shapefile” format is preferred. Most GIS data exists as either point, line, or polygon vector data, when selecting a dataset look for the type and detail you are most interested in. For example, “building locations” can often be stored as either point locations or polygon files. Roads and streams are often provided as line files, but can be provided as polygons as well.Above, an example of download options including Shapefiles, highlighted.
Once a suitable file has been located, download it, extract it if needed (shapefile collections are often provided as zipped collections) and store it at a known location on your computer. Extract the 5 files supporting the shapefile to a known location (note, GIS files can get large), such as “D:\Data\GIS\Tutorial” (your location will vary…)Above, an example of a group of related files, commonly stored in the same place but referred to as if it were a single “Shapefile”
In QGIS, select the “Layer” Menu, then click “Data Source Manager” next make sure “Vector” data is selected, the “Source Type” will be “File” and you will want to navigate to the location where your data is stored. You will see all of the support files for any given Shapefile, select the file with the “.shp” extension and click “Add” Note, large files or slow computers may take a minute Assuming you have all of the bundled support files, most importantly the “.prj” file, you should be able to safely ignore the “options” that are provided After adding the data, click “Close” on the “Data Source Manager” (or simply move it out of the way) and locate the “Layers” Panel, your new layer should be added. If you do not see the layer in the main map window make sure the checkbox to the left of the layer is selected. You can also turn off other layers or click and drag to reorder the layers. You can right click on a layer and select “Zoom to Layer” to zoom to the extent of the layer. When a layer contains very small features spread out over very large areas it may be difficult to see the features, try turning off other layers and panning/zooming as needed.Above, an example of a state wide polygon file using default display settings.
Step 5: Simple Symbology of custom data (optional)
When adding third party or custom data you will likely want to change how the data is displayed. QGIS has many options for this however this guide will only cover a very simple use case. Data symbology can involve many factors including design and aesthetic preferences so it is difficult to provide “one size fits all” guidance.
Return to, or find an area of interest In the “Layers Panel” click-drag the relevant layer(s) to a suitable order. Typically Basemap layers (like OpenStreetMap) should be on the bottom Usually “point” data should be on top of “line” data, and line data in turn on top of “polygon” data, however exceptions can occur. For any given shapefile layer, right click on the layer and click “properties” With the “Symbology” tab selected on the left, you have a number of options and presets for how the selected layer can be displayed. “Simple Fill” should be a default setting, if not available, remove any other options using the red “minus” button and add a “simple fill” using the green plus button, if needed. Click on the shaded color for “Fill Color” and drag the “Opacity” slider to be transparent (0%) Change the “Stroke” color, width, and style to your preferences (for example a light thin gray line) and hit “OK” Repeat Step(s) 3,4, & 5 as needed based on the data you’d like to show and how you would like it to be displayed.Step 6: Preparing a Print Layout
Once data is added to a map, an area of interest is visible, and relevant data has been symbolized the result can be put into a print layout for export such as a PDF file. Many options exist however PDF files are fairly common and support a number of useful print options.
From the “Project” menu select “New Print Layout” and provide a meaningful name if many layouts are expected. A new window will open, leaving the old window accessible as well. From the new Layout Window, right click on the blank canvass (the white square that represents the printable area) and click page properties. In the “Item Properties” panel, under page size select the size map for printing you are interested in. A “custom” size is available “Custom” size unlocks the Width and Height options and a number of units such as mm or inches are supported For example vendors like Vistaprint and Fedex-Kinkos allow for poster prints up to 36”x48” Printing and print proofing is its own sub-discipline, that often includes factors such as the printable area, printing resolution of the printer, paper quality and size as well as other factors. Defaults will be used to the extent possible. From the “Add Item” menu bar, select “Add Map” and then click and drag the approximate size and location of the map you wish to print on the canvass layout Depending on the amount of data and internet connection rendering the map on the canvass may take a moment Once added the map can be resized, and limited repositioning of the map position within the canvass is possible using the “Move Item Content” toolbar tool and click-dragging or mouse-wheel zooming Be sure to revert to the “Pan Layout” toolbar tool once the map content is positioned correctly. Using the wrong tool for switching between the map position and the layout tool can be frustrating so it is usually best to handle with care. Most printers can not fully print to the edge of a piece of paper so it is advised to leave a small border of “white space” For more exact control of the map item’s placement on the printable canvass, right click on the map area (make sure the “Select/Move item” toolbar tool is selected!) and click item properties. Under “Position and Size” you can enter in finer details about your placement. A bit of math is required relative to your printable area. For a 36”x48” canvass the following is suggested (make sure to use the upper left “Reference point” if using these numbers (in inches): “X” = 0.5 “Y” = 1.5 “Width” = 35 “Height” = 44 Traditionally Maps have Titles, credit data sources and other design elements. These can be added from the “Add Item” Menu, for example: From “Add Item” select “Add Label” and draw a label at the top of the page for a title Right clicking a map item and selecting “Item Properties” will expose relevant options such as a text box to add custom text (usually filled with “Lorem ipsum” by default) and options for changing font, font size, font color, etc. From “Add Item” select “Add Label” and draw a label at the bottom right of the page for data credit details Data is often subject to copyright and terms of use. This is especially relevant for any map you might share in a public setting (such as a tutorial!) however public domain data and personal use exemption are quite common for open data sources. OpenStreetMap has a generous but specific copyright and requests language to the effect of “© OpenStreetMap contributors (openstreetmap.org)” should be added In this example Virginia Department Of Transportation is listed as the author of the parcel data used and has a custom license that does not specifically claim copyright but rather a disclaimer that amounts to “use at your own risk” As a rule of thumb most data provided by governments will either be public domain or have generous terms of use, though aggregating quality data does take time and money it’s often provided as a public good (your taxes at work!). Exceptions do apply, for example it is technically possible (though probably illegal) to stream Google Maps imagery tiles into QGIS. Just because data is accessible doesn’t mean it should be accessed. Adding a scale bar is recommended for printed maps. Export PDF for printing From the “Layout” menu bar, click “Print…” and note the warning about streaming services, however this option appeared to produce a usable PDF file while testing.Step 7: Printing large format maps
If you select a normal 8.5”x11” canvass and have a home printer you should be able to print following your normal printer procedures. PDF files can usually be opened by web browsers or free software. In fact starting with smaller maps on a home printer is advised to get a sense of print-related issues prior to spending more on larger formats.
Large Format maps can be obtained from retail printing services that produce poster style products. For example both VistaPrint and Fedex-Kinkos have online tools. Some print vendors may have additional options that allow for oversize prints that are non standard.
As previously alluded to, printing and print proofing is a sort of subdiscipline of its own. VistaPrint provides a “Digital Proof” that attempts to be more representative of actual print quality but you should be aware that a print vendor will simply print the file they are provided. If you provide a file that is low resolution and highly pixelated, to the point of being unusable, you will probably not get a refund. There are steps you can take to mitigate this, for example PDF files can support vector based graphics and text meaning that the hypothetical upper limit of the print quality should be dependent only on the hardware rather than the data file but determining how to most effectively make use of these features is beyond the scope of this guide. As demonstrated the PDF export and resulting print may not always be 1:1 perfectly representative.
All this is to say: be careful, you might spend $60 on a map that looks good as a PDF but prints terribly based on a setting during export.
That being said, this is something I’ve been wanting to do for myself for ages and since I finally found a good/easy enough way to do it, I thought I’d share here.there is a lot of online help available, I may be able to answer a few questions if something I wrote above is unclear but keep in mind I don’t necessarily check here daily.
If you do try this and find it useful, I’d be mildly curious about what other use cases are out there. If someone has a good idea I might be inspired to do a follow up (no promises though!).
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Survival playing cards
Greg K. - March 20, 2022 I went looking for these thinking there would be many good options. I wanted something inexpensive that contained some useful survival/first aid information on the faces. Everything I found was either very expensive and/or had terrible reviews. Does anyone know of a good option that I haven’t found?
I did come across multiple printer shops that would print playing cards for you. If I could find free/open sourced/non-copyrighted survival tips and diagrams then doing it myself could be an option.
Read MoreFiction book review: Blue Fire by John Gilstrap
C P.Contributor - March 19, 2022 Blue Fire by John Gilstrap. Published March 2022 from Kensington Books.
TL;DR: A well-written, apolitical post-apoc page turner that emphasizes group dynamics more than gear or gun play. I would recommend borrowing from the library over buying. The first book in the series is available on Kindle Unlimited.
Blue Fire, the second book in John Gilstrap’s Victoria Emerson series, begins with a gun fight. Yet unlike most post-apocalyptic thrillers, the fight is not the result of a prison escape or government totalitarianism but rather a failed negotiation. And the aftermath of the brief fight features less blood and guts and more politics. As such, it sets the tone for much of what is to follow.
The Victoria Emerson series begins in Crimson Phoenix. In the opening of that book, Victoria Emerson, a Congresswoman from West Virginia, and two of her sons are awoken by a pair of soldiers tasked with escorting them from Washington, DC to a secret government bunker in preparation for an American-supported strike by Israel on Iran. When she discovers that the bunker will not accommodate her children, she refuses to enter and leaves with her reluctant military escort. The Middle East tensions trigger a wider global conflagration, including nuclear attacks on the United States, which Victoria and company weather in western Virginia. Various adventures ensue.
Blue Fire begins where Crimson Phoenix leaves off, with Victoria and her party helping lead the small town of Ortho as it weathers the challenges of life without power, external resources, or the rule of law. Secondary story lines follow her oldest son, who was away at boarding school at the time of the attack, and the members of Congress in a government bunker, including the former Speaker of the House, now reluctantly turned President.
The books deviate pleasantly from much of prepper fiction, which tends to focus on the survival of individuals and small groups. Typical stories stress individualism and are rife with male, ex-military leads with either heroic powers or startlingly good luck. Blue Fire and its prequel cast all of that aside. At its heart are two contrasting efforts to create order: one by Victoria and her allies in Ortho and another by a National Guard leader who has devolved into a de facto warlord. The characters in the book who are in the most danger are actually those who are most isolated – Victoria’s eldest son Adam and his girlfriend.
All the characters in Blue Fire read like fairly normal people. Even the military members are quite ordinary. The lead officer, Major McCrea, is most needed for his planning and organizational skills. Sergeant Copley is valued as much for his carpentry hobby as his military training. Neither are superhuman fighters. Victoria herself is both skilled and flawed: she is smart, forceful, and driven to get things done, but even her own sons are unsure if she remains in Ortho because she really wants to help or because she cannot give up her love of being in authority.
The books also get points for being very intentionally apolitical. No political parties are ever referenced by name; there is only the majority and the opposition. While the Senators and Representatives described in the book are given home districts, they are always districts that could plausibly be blue or red. No clearly Democratic or Republican political position is ever ascribed to a character. The effect is a sharp departure from the partisan politics often found in prepper fiction. Instead, there is a clear message that the real cause of ineffective government is a thoughtless focus on holding power, posturing, and scoring cheap points. I am sure that many readers will agree.
Lastly, I appreciated the books’ focus on people and skills more than gear. Far too many prepper novels focus incessantly on the names of specific guns, knives, backpacks, and boots. The worst sound like the author is regurgitating parts of a gear catalogue. There is almost none of that here. Gilstrap clearly knows enough about firearms and outdoorsmanship to describe shooting, hiking, and camping accurately. But he also knows that it does not matter much where you bought your equipment, as long as you know how to use it.
In short, Blue Fire (and Crimson Phoenix) will be appealing to a wide audience, including many people who find typical prepper fiction off-putting. But what does the book teach about prepping? My objection to books like A. American’s Going Home is not just that the incessant gear descriptions make for tedious reading. It is that the book sends the message that slogging hundreds of miles with a 50+ pound backpack loaded down with three different cooking systems is the best way to ride out the apocalypse. Other books contain may similarly miseducate the reader, by implying that you cannot survive danger without a rural farm, prior service as an Army Ranger, or a stockpile of silver coins.
On the one hand, Blue Fire’s description of the disaster that befalls America is both vague and a bit unrealistic. Nuclear war is a possibility, and maybe one that feels more salient given the current tensions with Russia. However, Gilstrap, as he explains in an author’s note at the end of Crimson Phoenix, has put aside much of the science about the effects of a nuclear exchange in order to facilitate his storytelling. In particular, the characters do surprisingly little to deal with or avoid nuclear fallout. The story is also told from the points of view of characters with limited information, sparing the author the task of detailing exactly what happened. In short, this book (and its prequel) will not provide edutainment on nuclear disasters.
Where the book really shines is in its emphasis on community and human relations. While other books may prompt the reader to ask, ‘Where will I go in a disaster?’ this one prompts the reader to ask, ‘Who will I know when I get there?’ Or while a typical story may lead you to think, ‘Do I have supplies for my family?’ this one may prompt you to reflect on what you will do with families that do not have supplies. Ultimately, survival is not just a solo activity but a community one. The book gives few readymade answers on how communities can prepare, but it nudges the reader’s thinking in a useful direction.
Read MoreEuropean energy prices going through the roof
Bill Masen - March 19, 2022 https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-10585147/Oil-price-surges-125-barrel-highest-level-2008.html
Gas price rockets leaving billpayers facing £5,000 price capThe price of gas has gone through the roof to record levels today as the West prepares to boycott Russia’s fossil fuels, which raises $1billion-a-day for Vladimir Putin’s war chest.
With global markets in turmoil, UK wholesale gas hit 800 pence per therm today – up from 39p a year ago – amid claims that the monthly price cap planned for October 1 could have to be raised to £5,000-a-year.
To clarify before the Covid Pandemic and the Ukranian conflict the average Brit was paying £1250 ($1645) a year of electricity and gas. A month or so ago that rose to over £1900 ($ 2500) a year, and is definately going to hit £3000 ($ 3900) a year at the end of October 22. The way these issues are affecting energy prices it is now forecast to rise to between £4000 and £5000 ( $ 5260 – $ 6500) a year up from £1250.
Millions are going to have a choice soon, HEAT or EAT but not both.
I cannot possibly emphasize enough that if you can go OFF GRID on heat and Light, even partially (like getting a wood stove) you REALLY should.
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Supply line news – Impacts of pandemic, war, inflation, and whatever comes next
Pops - March 18, 2022 A thread for news about possible and observed supply impacts of pandemic, war, inflation, and whatever comes next. I’m US-based so please chime in with reports from other regions.
Grain. Although the US doesn’t import much grain, we do bring in about 100 million tons a year, and we are big exporters. That means we are exposed to the world grain price. RU and Ukraine (UA) export about 12% of global calories traded. About 30% of wheat, 20% of corn and 80% of sunflower oil. UA.gov voted to ban exports and RU sanctions will have a big effect.
Chips. (not potato) In addition to the existing supply bottlenecks and huge demand for microchips, it turns out Ukraine produces 50% of the neon in the world and has shut down both factories. So what? Neon is vital to the lasers that make microchip production possible. I have a PV charger on backorder—ostensibly due to the already existing chip shortages.
Fertilizer. In addition to food price increase, RU is a huge exporter of fertiliser and banned export of N back in February and banned other exports thursday. Prices of N increased 22% and K went up 34% on friday alone. Not to put too fine a point on this, but fertilizer is the thing the Green Revolution was made of and what reset the timer on Ehrlich’s Population Bomb. So in addition to basic staples like grains, those of us who can grow some food should think about our fertiliser needs for the near term… and pesticides as well.
Lumber. Really building materials in general. Lumber price is nearly as high as it was at the height of the shutdowns. But in my experience going to the big box every week, the racks of about everything are better supplied now. If you can possibly put off a lumber purchase I think you will be able to save some money. But that’s just a guess and as I’m remodeling an old house, I can’t really postpone, so there is that.
Nickel, Copper, etc. Maybe getting into the weeds here but copper set an all-time high price this month and nickel was up 30%. China uses around half the supply and is driving consumption—because they make electronics for the rest of the world. I personally feel that the reason putin is going into UA now is that they past their peak in oil production on 2019, that is according to the RU oil ministry last year. So he’s gotta get to putting the USSR back together quick while he can. Having said all that, high oil price is going to drive up the price of lots of metals because they are needed for BEVs and renewable energy. Energy Skeptic talks about these things a lot, she has an article up now talking about the huge amount of raw materials needed to transition away from fossils.
We live in a complicated and interconnected world where everything comes from somewhere else. Stuff is unfolding surprisingly fast at the moment, normality bias makes my cognition slow to respond. Most of the time there is enough slack, at least in my rich world, just in time supply line, that critical shortages don’t appear. But to me prepping is primarily about keeping ahead of whatever supply glitches and shortages.
What do you see coming down the pike?
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