i carry at least an Esbit tab and a holder (light and easily improvised) routinely. On any overnight, a canister stove and the means to build a fire.  All lighter than a filter.

Boiling is probably faster, depending upon the volume and yur stove, and extremely effective. Just bring to a boil and cool gradually.

Probably not.  Check out the articles on this website on small portable panels. My approach is to use several small portable lights, headlamps and flashlights, as well as power banks. Impose refrigerator discipline (no frivolous opening).  Cook on a variety of camp stoves.  Crank up the fireplace.  Basically we camp out in the house.  Have done so for up to three days….

flexibility is the key.  Usually staying put is the best choice, but not always.  Sometimes leaving is th best option, as when there is an approaching wildfire (personal experience).

Our community follows a “catch and release’ model. I did CERT training a few years ago  – and no continuing group has been formed.  If CERT is ever utilized, we will all be strangers – not the best way to work productively

I am perfectly content with my S&W 357 purchased in the 1960s.  Nary a malfunction in 60+ years and I know it pretty well….. In preparedness/survival, firearms have a role, but other considerations are far more significant

Wives are great for this function, as well as many others…..

Probably the best strategy is to have a variety of sources for light and heat.  I just got a Coleman propane lamp, somewhat like the Colemans I remember as a kid.. The key to using LEDs is a stock of spare rechargeable batteries and robust power banks, replentishable from the grid or solar panels.  This will take care of any surplus spare change that is in your way….

Definitely a burning issue here, and I must say I prefer a LED lantern/light, preferably solar power capable, which is somewhat safer (not that electricity doesn’t have safety concerns). Doesn’t any open flame produce CO, even in very small amounts?  I have never heard f an issue with candles, however…..

Your recommendations are fine, but most of them are broadly applicable, not just to civil unrest

Power outages are so common and predictable that they barely qualify as emergencies….

I know we are talking gear, but what is even more important is skills and abilities.  Can you go into the wild, gather fuel, light a fire, boil water, and cook something?  The cost of the minimal gear for this is trivial, but the skills are not. “Survival” means different things to different people and covers different circumstances. but often you have minimal gear,  You must use a tin can instead of the Kelly Kettle, etc. Night is coming one, it is below freezing, and you have only a small day pack.  You must spend the night out in deep snow.  what actions do you take? Skills and knowledge are more important than gadgets….

Don’t make impulsive purchases.  Assess your gear, decide upon the most critical deficiencies, do careful research, and then buy. A lot of the really important gear is rather cheap….

The answer to the original is very simple: hiking boots are best for hiking; work boots are best for working, especially those with steel toes (critical sometimes) combat boots are best for combat, which is best minimized.. Hiking boots cover a wide range – from double boots insulated against cold and snow  to approach shoes useful for rock climbs up to 5.6 or so.  The best shoe will depend upon the situation, the weather, and the terrain, at a minimum.  It must fit well and be comfortable for long periods, above all else. Most of us can easily use at least four boots – a light, low cut hiker, a stouter hiker, aa steel toed work boot, and an approach shoe.  In cold and snow a double boot will be necessary. That said, one of my best shoes was a Vietnam boot (high cloth uppers and a decent lug sole).  I cut down the upper and used them successfully in Arizona sandstone canyons, climbing up to 5.9 on prehistoric toe and hand hold trails.  This was before approach shoes. Light is good!!!!

Hard to  say which brand or model is most durable,  In general, build quality is vastly better than just a decade ago.  My best headlamp is a ZebraLight, a brand popular among cavers, for whom light is critical. A standard with cavers is “carry three independent light sources” – a pretty good rule for anyone dealing with the dark. One brand that I like is Knog, an Australian firm.  I read regularly in bed at night using their “Bilby” model and I like it a lot.  All of their lights can be recharged using only a USB port. There are many quality brands – Black Diamond, Olight, Fenix, Petzl and I have little experience with them, but they have good reps….. I avoid AAA powered lights, preferring AA and 18650 lithium-ion batteries.  lumens are emphasized in ads, but run time  at lower light levels is probably at least as significant. Lots f new technology coming to market these days – stay tuned!

With rechargeables, there is variation in quality.  I have found it better to spend a bit more for better service life.  Also capacities vary -more capacity, more cost.  Be sure t buy li-ions with protected circuits – also more costly.  The extra cost is recovered in cheaper operating and longer life. Maglites were the first truly dependable lights I ever found and I used them for years, but they are now outmoded by brighter and lighter lights, especially headlamps, which in general are more versatile nd useful than flashlights Whatever you choose, alternatives are good.  Keep your eggs in different baskets…..

We have focused on flashlights, but my preference is for a suitable headlamp, far superior for many tasks -it keeps your hands free. Especially when hiking at night, I choose a lower light level so as to keep some night vision capability.  Variable powered lights  are now common and are very versatile., specially when powered by 18650 lithium ion  batteries, actually cheaper to operate than D cells. Even a “tactical’ light is a poor substitute for an actual weapon.  Bear spray has proven to be at least as effective as a firearm when dealing with bears – works against humans too..

Be very careful with volatile fluids like gas or lighter fluid.  I keep matches in a waterproof container, also my Bic lighter.

Keep the kerosene lights and add LED lanterns powered by rechargeable batteries, especially lithium-ion.  there are many brands available, but choose carefully since capabilities vary greatly. In sunny SoCal, solar charging is quite feasible, as would charging off a vehicle battery.  I’ll bet you could charge in the PNW with a fairly large storage unit, charged off house current and kept in reserve, again, topped off by solar. Maglights have been surpassed by many LED flashlights nd headlamps;; they have always been lousy weapons. Get something more suitable. It pays to have alternative sources for electricity and lighting and other essentials, esp. cell phones…..