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No Youtube as I am not fond of tech<smile>.  Do you plan on spinning on a hand spindle or a wheel? The difference in hand spindles can make you swear or enjoy it. Wheels are easier to deal with in different styles. Historically accurate ones are double drive but scotch tension is much less annoying.  Next up. You can learn to spin with flax but you will NOT be happy. And wet spinning flax is a major PITA. Wool is more forgiving and you will have a usable product faster on the learning curve. Flax would be more of an intermediate type fiber. Do not make the mistake of getting poor quality wool because ” I am only learning”. A good spinner can make bad wool better but a beginner does not have the experience to treadle, draft and pluck out ugly spots all at the same time. Garbage in, garbage out for spinning also.  I have always taught wool prep from dirty fleece to yarn BUT beginners spin nicely prepped wool until they get the hang of it. If you are learning on a wheel, I suggest you get some regular hobby store type yarn and tie that to the bobbin and practice feeding that on. This will “teach” your hands while you get the hang of treadling. After you can make the wheel go around well, THEN add the hand gestures to draft and feed real fiber, The whole thing is sort of like patting your head and rubbing your tummy. Once you GET IT, it is easy.  Corriedale or a med Romney make good beginner wools. The down wools take a bit more practice tho they are lovely. The long wools will also be more challenging at first. If you intend to weave, the med wools are forgiving and work out quite nicely. And just for an idea of volume needed…..it took 7 spinners to provide yarn for 1 weaver. So knitting things is a good idea for starting. liebrecht

Soap 101. Clean tallow and lard will not smell like beef or pork. More tallow makes a harder, less lathering soap. More lard makes a softer, more lathering soap. EOs, on the whole, do not “last” in soaps but the guys were quite fond of cinnamon scented and that did hold it’s scent longer. Cinn EO not ground out of the spice cabinet tho. All fats have different properties depending on what YOU want. More lather, longer lasting, etc. My go to is castille soap as rendering tallow DOES reek. For that matter, you can use Crisco. Now listen carefully…..this is important….go to Majestic Mountain Sage lye calculator and plug in the amount of each fat YOU want to use. Different fats have different saponification values so you need to use the correct amount of lye for each. Use a balance to measure your lye. Too much makes soap with unused lye and it will burn you. Too little will make a gloppy horrid soap. Soap does need to age about 6 weeks to allow the complete process. Some folks ignore this but ” follow the science”<smile>. You can read about the properties of various fats to make your own creation. Orrrr….use the MMS calculator to use up dribs of fat/oils on hand and make a useful product from them. I admit I do not like ” pieces” of stuff in my soap like rosemary but that is just me. You can add ground oatmeal, chocolate ( tho I always end up with the chocolate in the soapmaker not the soap). Goats’ milk is overrated but if you have it, use it. I have only used handmade soaps since the 90s and taught classes on bath products. So YMMV but go for it. Oh..do NOT be tempted to use a disposable foil pan as a mold. Do not use aluminum at all. You can use a new kitty litter pan. The silicon baking things like for muffins are great. They are awful for baking but they do work wonderfully for soaps. I have one shaped like train cars that the kids loved for soaps.  liebrecht


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No Youtube as I am not fond of tech<smile>.  Do you plan on spinning on a hand spindle or a wheel? The difference in hand spindles can make you swear or enjoy it. Wheels are easier to deal with in different styles. Historically accurate ones are double drive but scotch tension is much less annoying.  Next up. You can learn to spin with flax but you will NOT be happy. And wet spinning flax is a major PITA. Wool is more forgiving and you will have a usable product faster on the learning curve. Flax would be more of an intermediate type fiber. Do not make the mistake of getting poor quality wool because ” I am only learning”. A good spinner can make bad wool better but a beginner does not have the experience to treadle, draft and pluck out ugly spots all at the same time. Garbage in, garbage out for spinning also.  I have always taught wool prep from dirty fleece to yarn BUT beginners spin nicely prepped wool until they get the hang of it. If you are learning on a wheel, I suggest you get some regular hobby store type yarn and tie that to the bobbin and practice feeding that on. This will “teach” your hands while you get the hang of treadling. After you can make the wheel go around well, THEN add the hand gestures to draft and feed real fiber, The whole thing is sort of like patting your head and rubbing your tummy. Once you GET IT, it is easy.  Corriedale or a med Romney make good beginner wools. The down wools take a bit more practice tho they are lovely. The long wools will also be more challenging at first. If you intend to weave, the med wools are forgiving and work out quite nicely. And just for an idea of volume needed…..it took 7 spinners to provide yarn for 1 weaver. So knitting things is a good idea for starting. liebrecht

Soap 101. Clean tallow and lard will not smell like beef or pork. More tallow makes a harder, less lathering soap. More lard makes a softer, more lathering soap. EOs, on the whole, do not “last” in soaps but the guys were quite fond of cinnamon scented and that did hold it’s scent longer. Cinn EO not ground out of the spice cabinet tho. All fats have different properties depending on what YOU want. More lather, longer lasting, etc. My go to is castille soap as rendering tallow DOES reek. For that matter, you can use Crisco. Now listen carefully…..this is important….go to Majestic Mountain Sage lye calculator and plug in the amount of each fat YOU want to use. Different fats have different saponification values so you need to use the correct amount of lye for each. Use a balance to measure your lye. Too much makes soap with unused lye and it will burn you. Too little will make a gloppy horrid soap. Soap does need to age about 6 weeks to allow the complete process. Some folks ignore this but ” follow the science”<smile>. You can read about the properties of various fats to make your own creation. Orrrr….use the MMS calculator to use up dribs of fat/oils on hand and make a useful product from them. I admit I do not like ” pieces” of stuff in my soap like rosemary but that is just me. You can add ground oatmeal, chocolate ( tho I always end up with the chocolate in the soapmaker not the soap). Goats’ milk is overrated but if you have it, use it. I have only used handmade soaps since the 90s and taught classes on bath products. So YMMV but go for it. Oh..do NOT be tempted to use a disposable foil pan as a mold. Do not use aluminum at all. You can use a new kitty litter pan. The silicon baking things like for muffins are great. They are awful for baking but they do work wonderfully for soaps. I have one shaped like train cars that the kids loved for soaps.  liebrecht


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