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Reply to: Your car will probably be fine after an EMP Posted June 17, 2024

I am a vehicle mechanic. Have considered this very question at some length. Short answer, don’t even TRY to buy all the electronics needed to replace an EMP damaged vehicle. Here’s why. #1, Prohibitive cost involved. Since you are, in many cases buying remanufactured electronics, they want your core, an old unit to rebuild. You can’t give them a core because you are trying to have an EXTRA part. This will add anywhere from hundreds to possibly thousands to the cost of doing this. #2, Flashing/reprogramming needed. Many modules/computers on a vehicle have to be flashed/reprogrammed to your specific vehicle or THEY WILL NOT WORK. My daughter had a body module going bad on her vehicle. Found one at a salvage yard. Same part# body module. Hooked it all up, turned the key on and the radio said LOCKED, and the vehicle would not start. Most ECM, BCM, TCM, etc need to be “married” to the specific vehicle serial#. This takes a scan tool, NOT A $20 CODE READER. The scan tool that i have is a $2000 tool and takes TRAINING to use it. The only way that i would even try to approach this is to buy a totalled out vehicle that’s the EXACT same year, make, model, engine, transmission and hopefully option package as well. Different options change the programming of the body module. Then you can have this vehicle delivered to a spot you can work on it and pull ALL the electronics off of it that need programmed and then determine IF you can take the module by itself in to the dealer or competent shop and have just the module itself programmed. Very likely in most cases the shop will need your running vehicle at their facility, will have to physically install the new part on the vehicle and then flash/program that module to your vehicle. Very likely they will only be able to do one module at a time. So you are going to pay labor to install, let’s say 3 modules, on your vehicle and you will end up with the 3 factory original modules as your “spares”. I have numerous spare parts for some of my vehicles, both new and used. Thousands of dollars worth. More than what most mechanics have in their personal garage. Even with all that, i don’t have ready-to-bolt-on modules in my inventory. Maybe if i had more $, i could do that though. While the easy answer in my eyes is to buy the device from EMP SHIELD. They’re not a bunch of get rich quick types, have been in business several years AND have a CAGE code. Have a large reference library of most of the studies done on effects of EMP. I’ve got their devices on 2 of my personal vehicles. Having a CAGE code means they sell to the government. If that’s a gimmick of some kind, they’ve got stones. Plus it’s been tested at a large testing facility that large corporations and govt agencies mostly use, can’t think of name right now. So if that’s a fake, the fix is in at one of the largest labs in the country. I believe they’re the real deal. I’ve contacted them several times now with questions about the device and always got prompt, accurate answers. Since you mention reading most of the relevant papers on this, i’ll ask you the same question i asked them. In the situation of an EMP strike, and then a second EMP strike from a second nuclear detonation a few seconds or minutes later, when the grid will be down, how will the EMP Shield device work w/o power to shield from the effects of that second EMP? And yes, i was able to verify that answer as correct from results of a previous study. Give it a shot. What is your answer to that question?  

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Reply to: Your car will probably be fine after an EMP Posted June 17, 2024

I am a vehicle mechanic. Have considered this very question at some length. Short answer, don’t even TRY to buy all the electronics needed to replace an EMP damaged vehicle. Here’s why. #1, Prohibitive cost involved. Since you are, in many cases buying remanufactured electronics, they want your core, an old unit to rebuild. You can’t give them a core because you are trying to have an EXTRA part. This will add anywhere from hundreds to possibly thousands to the cost of doing this. #2, Flashing/reprogramming needed. Many modules/computers on a vehicle have to be flashed/reprogrammed to your specific vehicle or THEY WILL NOT WORK. My daughter had a body module going bad on her vehicle. Found one at a salvage yard. Same part# body module. Hooked it all up, turned the key on and the radio said LOCKED, and the vehicle would not start. Most ECM, BCM, TCM, etc need to be “married” to the specific vehicle serial#. This takes a scan tool, NOT A $20 CODE READER. The scan tool that i have is a $2000 tool and takes TRAINING to use it. The only way that i would even try to approach this is to buy a totalled out vehicle that’s the EXACT same year, make, model, engine, transmission and hopefully option package as well. Different options change the programming of the body module. Then you can have this vehicle delivered to a spot you can work on it and pull ALL the electronics off of it that need programmed and then determine IF you can take the module by itself in to the dealer or competent shop and have just the module itself programmed. Very likely in most cases the shop will need your running vehicle at their facility, will have to physically install the new part on the vehicle and then flash/program that module to your vehicle. Very likely they will only be able to do one module at a time. So you are going to pay labor to install, let’s say 3 modules, on your vehicle and you will end up with the 3 factory original modules as your “spares”. I have numerous spare parts for some of my vehicles, both new and used. Thousands of dollars worth. More than what most mechanics have in their personal garage. Even with all that, i don’t have ready-to-bolt-on modules in my inventory. Maybe if i had more $, i could do that though. While the easy answer in my eyes is to buy the device from EMP SHIELD. They’re not a bunch of get rich quick types, have been in business several years AND have a CAGE code. Have a large reference library of most of the studies done on effects of EMP. I’ve got their devices on 2 of my personal vehicles. Having a CAGE code means they sell to the government. If that’s a gimmick of some kind, they’ve got stones. Plus it’s been tested at a large testing facility that large corporations and govt agencies mostly use, can’t think of name right now. So if that’s a fake, the fix is in at one of the largest labs in the country. I believe they’re the real deal. I’ve contacted them several times now with questions about the device and always got prompt, accurate answers. Since you mention reading most of the relevant papers on this, i’ll ask you the same question i asked them. In the situation of an EMP strike, and then a second EMP strike from a second nuclear detonation a few seconds or minutes later, when the grid will be down, how will the EMP Shield device work w/o power to shield from the effects of that second EMP? And yes, i was able to verify that answer as correct from results of a previous study. Give it a shot. What is your answer to that question?