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Connecting the two generators is very simple–just a simple interconnect cable. Looks like the Harbor Freight Predator inverter generators copied the Honda interconnect cable as well. If you buy a generator (or two) to connect to a transfer switch, make sure to note the max capacity of the receptacle that supplies power from the generator, as well as the max rating of the receptacle and circuits of your transfer switch. In the case of my Honda EU2000i Companion, the NEMA L5-30P receptacle has a max rating of 26.6 amps, with all larger generators that I’ve seen having a max of 30A.  If you need more capacity, you’ll want a dedicated whole house generator and automatic transfer switch. When I upgraded the electrical panel on my house, I had the electrician install the Reliance R310A Pro/Tran 2 transfer switch. It’s a manual consumer-grade model, but it’s plenty adequate for my needs and infrequent use.  The electrician only charged me $375 for the transfer switch installation during my panel upgrade, and I purchased the transfer switch on my own. Getting the transfer switch permitted in my city was a hassle due to my city technically not allowing any surface mount electrical panels. The eventually relented, as there don’t seem to be any flush mount consumer transfer switches available.  There is also a complete ignorance of NEC code regarding wire connections inside the electrical panel (required for the add-on transfer switch) from both the city and my electrician, so it took me weeks (and a call to Reliance for confirmation) to convince everyone that the transfer switch was NEC compliant.  If you can find an electrical panel that has an integrated “interlock” transfer switch, that would be the better way to go, but is only practical if you’re upgrading your panel. Or you can just use a bunch of extension cords like I did for several years before I had the transfer switch installed. It’s a hassle, but it’s simple.

Capacity planning tip: I have owned the older model Honda EU2000i for several years. It is a great generator, but I found the single generator can barely handle the startup surge of my basic Whirlpool refrigerator.  And it definitely cannot handle a refrigerator when in Eco mode.  I had to get the EU2000i Companion generator and pair them in order to handle the high draw of the refrigerator. Together, they work great. Also, although both of my Honda generators have the very quiet Eco mode, that only works well if you have a stable constant load without large sudden power draws. If both of the Hondas are paired and running in Eco mode, even together they cannot ramp up their RPMs fast enough to handle the refrigerator compressor startup draw, and at least one of the generators will shutdown due to overload when the fridge compressor kicks in. However, I found that if I keep Eco mode turned OFF for the Companion (full speed), I can keep the main EU2000i in Eco mode, and that configuration can handle the refrigerator startup, or a full size microwave.   Fuel: Never leave pump gas in your generator while in storage. And definitely read the instructions or learn how to drain the carburetor in your generator to remove all fuel before storage.  Also, look into VP Racing Small Engine methanol free fuel. Run some through the generator to flush out the pump gas before you put it away.  It’s expensive, but it’s worth the cost to avoid a clogged carb. Cheaper alternative: Having spent quite a bit of money on both Hondas (and the propane conversion kits), if I were to do it all over again, I would probably purchase two of the Harbor Freight Predator 2000 generators. From everything I’ve seen and read, they appear to be a great option for the price if you are willing to roll the dice with Harbor Freight.

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Connecting the two generators is very simple–just a simple interconnect cable. Looks like the Harbor Freight Predator inverter generators copied the Honda interconnect cable as well. If you buy a generator (or two) to connect to a transfer switch, make sure to note the max capacity of the receptacle that supplies power from the generator, as well as the max rating of the receptacle and circuits of your transfer switch. In the case of my Honda EU2000i Companion, the NEMA L5-30P receptacle has a max rating of 26.6 amps, with all larger generators that I’ve seen having a max of 30A.  If you need more capacity, you’ll want a dedicated whole house generator and automatic transfer switch. When I upgraded the electrical panel on my house, I had the electrician install the Reliance R310A Pro/Tran 2 transfer switch. It’s a manual consumer-grade model, but it’s plenty adequate for my needs and infrequent use.  The electrician only charged me $375 for the transfer switch installation during my panel upgrade, and I purchased the transfer switch on my own. Getting the transfer switch permitted in my city was a hassle due to my city technically not allowing any surface mount electrical panels. The eventually relented, as there don’t seem to be any flush mount consumer transfer switches available.  There is also a complete ignorance of NEC code regarding wire connections inside the electrical panel (required for the add-on transfer switch) from both the city and my electrician, so it took me weeks (and a call to Reliance for confirmation) to convince everyone that the transfer switch was NEC compliant.  If you can find an electrical panel that has an integrated “interlock” transfer switch, that would be the better way to go, but is only practical if you’re upgrading your panel. Or you can just use a bunch of extension cords like I did for several years before I had the transfer switch installed. It’s a hassle, but it’s simple.

Capacity planning tip: I have owned the older model Honda EU2000i for several years. It is a great generator, but I found the single generator can barely handle the startup surge of my basic Whirlpool refrigerator.  And it definitely cannot handle a refrigerator when in Eco mode.  I had to get the EU2000i Companion generator and pair them in order to handle the high draw of the refrigerator. Together, they work great. Also, although both of my Honda generators have the very quiet Eco mode, that only works well if you have a stable constant load without large sudden power draws. If both of the Hondas are paired and running in Eco mode, even together they cannot ramp up their RPMs fast enough to handle the refrigerator compressor startup draw, and at least one of the generators will shutdown due to overload when the fridge compressor kicks in. However, I found that if I keep Eco mode turned OFF for the Companion (full speed), I can keep the main EU2000i in Eco mode, and that configuration can handle the refrigerator startup, or a full size microwave.   Fuel: Never leave pump gas in your generator while in storage. And definitely read the instructions or learn how to drain the carburetor in your generator to remove all fuel before storage.  Also, look into VP Racing Small Engine methanol free fuel. Run some through the generator to flush out the pump gas before you put it away.  It’s expensive, but it’s worth the cost to avoid a clogged carb. Cheaper alternative: Having spent quite a bit of money on both Hondas (and the propane conversion kits), if I were to do it all over again, I would probably purchase two of the Harbor Freight Predator 2000 generators. From everything I’ve seen and read, they appear to be a great option for the price if you are willing to roll the dice with Harbor Freight.